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Slippy Liam - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Aidan Maguire, John Robinson
Rock (Sport)
G
1
9 draws
55
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

To the left of West chimney and the right of Cry Uncle. Follows a blank ramp/slab on an arete. Technical footwork and balance required. You think you have good foot technique, give it a test on this great slab route.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2007-04-26
Views: 131
Route ID: 81416

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2009-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Route

This is just a hard route with many insecure moves, wait a minute ! your above bolts. Requires good footwork and slab skills.

This route is most likely 11d

Added: 2009-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ultraviolet on 2005-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars * FIRST ASCENT: This climb is rated 11d!*

First ascent spring 2005. Originally one had to slip between the big oak limb and the wall (a 2 foot gap). This accounts for the close bolt spacing around 3rd (so as to not hit the big branch. The fire took care of that! The route is hard and very thin with unrelenting, toe fatiguing smears for a long ways. The crux is pulling around to the slab from the left and then the moves right above. The other crux is just standing on sustained delicate feet forever! You may have the moves dialed and still fall off repeatedly due to toe fatigue. I was trying to avoid bolting in such a way as to change the R rating on Cry Mary. Beside that there are sections with just no good rests to clip. It is temperature dependent and in direct sun on a warm day is probaly a couple of grades harder. It is named after my 2 year old, Liam born Christmas day 2004. Placed on rap

Added: 2007-04-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2007-04-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Holy Shit!

Technical and sustained. Some people say it's tempature dependent... what ever, I say its just hard.
Most bolts are a good reach to clip. A couple gappy sections up high. Not exactly runnout but you have to make some stiff moves a ways above your last clip. None the less, a good challanging route. Very thin, very sustained. I like this route more and more everytime I climb it. A true sugarloaf classic to be.

Added: 2007-04-15