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Pan Dulce (sweet bread) - 5.10d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Dan Patitucci, Joel Moore (1990)
Rock (Trad)
G
3
Quick draws, (Cams 1- 1in cam, 1- 2in cam and 1- .4 cam. if doing the third pitch only)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Start by climbing up the West Chimney to a point where you can reach out around a corner to clip the first bolt of Pan Dulce. Traverse around the corner to the right on good edges and clip another bolt before making a long easy traverse out right along a wide ledge to the anchors. Make sure you stop at the second set of anchors for the belay. The first set are for working Grand Delusion. The second pitch climbs a broad arete on good holds and immaculate granite. Well protected. Pitch three climbs up and slightly to the left up a short crack system to a small roof. Make some steep moves on big knobs to a bolt. Continue up a few more moves then a short run out (5.7) on less steep terrain but smaller knobs to small ledge. Climb over a small crack (a #2 BD cam protects the first moves well) and continue up the arete on bullet hard golden granite past 5 bolts. Bolted anchor on top.

Descent Options:

Rap the route. Traverse around the block to the right and finish on the last pitch of Hardings Chimney or traverse to the left past some steep blocks and along the tunnel through last pitch of Hardings. Both are easy 5th class.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-04-26
Views: 568
Route ID: 99161

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: retro67 on 2010-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Last pitch only

Climbed last pitch to bypass crowds on Hardings chimney headed to summit. PG13 for old bolts. Chad lead.

Added: 2010-02-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2009-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome Route

This is a great route that should get done more often. After the second belay do the link up all the way to the top, it really adds to the over-all route.

Added: 2009-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2009-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Hosed

Went up Pan Dulce with a bolt kit and all to add another pitch. Climbed up above the 2nd pitch to a good stance and added a bolt. Then continued up to a small sloaping ledge where I discovered the last pitch had already been done, damn! Oh well, it was a good route anyway. The origional party climbed around the area where we added a bolt so all was not for not. We successfully added a short link up making a more direct and sustained second pitch to Pan Dulce. Could probably use one more bolt on the link up. I give the OK to whom ever wants to go up and add it.

Added: 2009-04-26