Start up a left angling crack near the south face and gain the arete. Steep well protected climbing leads to a short traverse right to the anchors. Pitch two starts out strong but quickly mellows out on holes and pockets up a steep face to slab. Pitch three climbs a steep corner with splitter cracks, over a bulge and up some wondering runnout face with big holds. The last pitch starts out strong and stays physical with little rests until you make a long traverse out left. Double rope technique is suggested to minimize rope drag. Gain the arete and some steep physical technical moves. Pull over a bulge and up easier face to the top.
Rappel down the notch on the West Face using anchors for Pan Dulce. Or rappel down and finish on Hardings Chimney to the top.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2012-05-31
Route ID: 111559
Super climbing, but runout. First two pitches pretty tame. Third pitch traverse runout 5.10 with a nob ty off. Chad "If you want to do this one, better lead the last pitch" Last pitch crux move with feet over bolt, then 10 more feet of 5.11 to bolt. Fall ?? Maybe OK.
Done the first couple pitches several times but never got on the last one. This is the windiest route at the loaf besides maybe Bolee Gold. Anyway, the wind finally calmed down this time and I finished the route. Pretty wild on that arete.