When trad leaders come to Black Velvet looking for a classic moderate route, it is almost always, without exception, Frogland. As the premier sub-5.9 classic route in the canyon, this climb is virtually always crowded, and deservedly so, the climbing is fun, well protected, and has good exposure. To find the route, head into the canyon and take the first or second fork that heads left up the hill. Frogland ascends the crack system immediately right of a huge white face with a prominent roof a few hundred feet up. The start of the route can be identified by a slim flake leaning up against the wall at the base of the route. Pitch 1: Head up the flake and the corner above, clipping a bolt now and then to the large, tree covered ledge above. 5.7, 130' Pitch 2: Head up the ramp on the right side of the ledge, and then step left and follow another ramp up to a corner. This corner leads to a cozy belay spot above. 5.7, 130' Pitch 3: More or less pick whichever way looks best. The pitch ends 140' straight up at a nice ledge. All of the choices converge at this belay. Pitch 4: The crux pitch. Head up and then left, aiming for a bolt above. From here, head up again eventually traverse to the left just below the roof to a thin crack system- follow this up to a decent stance. 100', 5.8 Pitch 5: Another crux pitch, with some exciting movement. Head up the slab to the bolt, then follow the double cracks up and under the chockstone. (Optional Belay at the chockstone) From here, step to the right and head up a gully, belaying where possible. 150, 5.8. Pitch 6: Head up the gully again, eventually stepping out right from the corner onto the face, and follow the easy (albeit unprotected) terrain to the summit. 5.5, 175'. Variations: Almost every pitch has a variation. On pitch 5, if the slab disagrees with you, the corner to the left is well protected at 5.9, and the slab to the right is much easier at 5.3. Both lead back to the original pitch. Descent: Head east from the summit, following cairns around a corner to a saddle and then down a gully. The trail system leads you back to the break between the inbound trail and the climbers trail back up to the base.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2005-06-09
Route ID: 13564