P1: Clip five bolts on easy 5.8 terrain
P2: Use thin crack and work up to black face
P3: Pull on varnished plates
P4: More plates (Rap with two 60m ropes from here)
P5: Optional for top out. Exposed moves on arete take you near the top
Rappel with two ropes after pitch 4 or scramble to the top of the peak and walk off right
Submitted by: iklimbrocks on 2008-12-06
Route ID: 97320
up with Myster Z for a 10 hour car to car day. Thought P1 was the most heady with some potentially fragile rock and interesting bolt spacing. P2 was the crux but well protected. Finished it up to the top and walked off in a couple inches of snow; don't forget to sign the summit register!
A modern classic. 2.5 hr approach was well worth it for the spacious setting. 6 beautiful pitches to the top of the pillar. The plates on the "money pitch" are varnished and generally close together - RPs could help there if you have them. Pitches 5 & 6 are very cool - following an arete to the top of the pillar. We rapped with a 70 meter rope from chains at top of the pillar to a flat pedestal - there are anchors there on a route just right of Arm., then to the top of 4th pitch of Arm., then two raps to the dihedral route left of Arm. and back to the top of the 1st Arm. pitch.
Armatron is the full meal deal: great approach, impeccable setting, engaging climbing. You will not be disappointed if you punch this route to the top--the summit view is searing. I personally found the 5.9 pitch to be the best and most secure pitch on the route. The 5.6 plates are unique, but the left leaning feel of the climbing kept me from relaxing. Did any one else feel that way? Anyhow, we had the misfortune of listening to a rescue go down on Crimson. Helicopters are distracting.