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High Anxiety - 5.10c

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
6
gear
650
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Roughly 150' right of Nightcrawler is an obvious white slab with a obvious roof about 200' up. Start here on discontinuous cracks trending up and left to a scoop just below the roof. Once at this belay, head up and left (bolts) and into the dihedral. Follow the dihedral until just after the 5.10 pitch, then work your way left 15' into another dihedral. Follow this to just below the top, then step back right onto an obvious ledge system at the top of the initial dihedral. From here, either rappel with two ropes on Pro Life or continue up for two more pitches to the summit.

Descent Options:

Rappel after 5th pitch or use gunsight descent.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-03-24
Views: 490
Route ID: 57491

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2009-04-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars High Anxiety

The 4th and 5th pitches were entertaining, see no need to do that last pitch. Just look out right at the top of the 5th pitch for rap chains. Double 60m ropes get you to the ground in three raps. That first rap is 60m. The crux pitch actually offers a bit of off width at the top of it that is probably the most difficult move versus the bomber finger and hand jams below. This is a mirror image corner to Nightcrawler, so better to do when it is cold up here and Nightcrawler is shaded.

Added: 2009-04-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2008-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route!

Probably best to rap off the top of Pro Life with two ropes rather than go to the top on this one. Good stuff- even better now that the bolts will actually hold falls! (Bolts replaced by ASCA on 3/19/08- 4 pro bolts, 2 anchor bolts)

Added: 2008-03-19