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The Nightcrawler - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.38/5 Average Rating : 4.38 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.83/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

This is probably the premiere route on the Brownstone wall- or at least the premiere 5.10 route- three pitches of superb climbing up the right side of the Hourglass formation are the heart of the route. Start down and right from the Hourglass on some low angle rock. Pitch 1) Work your way up to the base of the obvious chimney at the base of the hourglass. Generally straight up with a short traverse left at the end. 150', 5.6ish Pitch 2) Gain the chimney and follow it to a good ledge. 5.9, 130' Pitch 3) Follow the dihedral above to another anchor. Amazing. 5.10+, 100' Pitch 4) Continue up one of the best short pitches anywhere to an anchor. 5.10-, 60' Pitch 5,6) Work your way up the face and crack system to the top of the wall, 5.8ish, 200'

Descent Options:

Either rappel the route from the top of Pitch 4 with two ropes (can leave the 2nd rope at the top of 2) or use the Gunsight descent from the summit.

Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Views: 706
Route ID: 57492

10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snoopy138 on 2013-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars really fun

The chimney on P2 is not bad, just have to figure out how to use the face holds. P3 seemed stiff for RR 10c, especially the move off the ledge past the last 2 bolts.

You can rap Time's Up (left side of the hourglass) with a single 70m rope.

Added: 2013-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2010-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nightcrawler

Tend to agree with the others. A hard 5.10 lead on those last two pitches. A ton of stemming. Still feeling it and I am a flexible old dude. I led the longer third pitch. Real fun and super protected. The 2nd pitch was a good one too. Will have to give this route fives stars for quality even though it is not that long. We combined with Hourglass diversion for a total of seven pitches. You do not have to walk off at the top of Hourglass. To your left is a bolted rap station that will take your directly back to the top of Nightcrawler with double 60's. I have done all the routes on this wall. High Anxiety and Pro Choice are also good routes. With Joe A.

Added: 2010-03-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: byran on 2009-01-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nightcrawler

Great climb. Probably my favorite I've done in Red Rock, although there's still a lot of great climbs I have yet to do. The descent gully was still full of snow and ice from that blizzard last month. Hiking down took forever and required an extra rappel. I wish we had gotten an early start so we could have spent more time enjoying the summit instead of rushing to get down. If you've never topped out Brownstone Wall, it's well worth climbing the last pitch. It's an impressive ridge with a great view off the backside.

Added: 2009-01-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lou on 2008-11-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The meaning of nightcrawler

I think Catherine and I found out the meaning of nightcrawler.... you have to squirm your way up a flaring v-slot....very akin to the one on "thin ice" in the Needles; which goes at 10b... you decide. Personally the thin ice was easier. Give the grade overall.. 10d... imho. I can imagine alot of cursing goin on in that chimney from time to time... heh heh. Wonderful "backcountry" experience ... at least by Vegas standards. Do it...

Added: 2008-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: agalwholikesclimbs on 2008-11-16 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Don't think so

Hmmmm, I disliked this route. ...and it's not even the smooth flare chimney that did it.
Thought P2 was a 5.10a, and P3 a 5.11-, IMHO.

Good job to Lou the leader. Maybe after the memories of this experience have had much time to fade (including the long-ass approach), I will try again and hope for better results. Good luck on it.

Added: 2008-11-16

... Read all 10 ascent notes