This is probably the premiere route on the Brownstone wall- or at least the premiere 5.10 route- three pitches of superb climbing up the right side of the Hourglass formation are the heart of the route. Start down and right from the Hourglass on some low angle rock. Pitch 1) Work your way up to the base of the obvious chimney at the base of the hourglass. Generally straight up with a short traverse left at the end. 150', 5.6ish Pitch 2) Gain the chimney and follow it to a good ledge. 5.9, 130' Pitch 3) Follow the dihedral above to another anchor. Amazing. 5.10+, 100' Pitch 4) Continue up one of the best short pitches anywhere to an anchor. 5.10-, 60' Pitch 5,6) Work your way up the face and crack system to the top of the wall, 5.8ish, 200'
Either rappel the route from the top of Pitch 4 with two ropes (can leave the 2nd rope at the top of 2) or use the Gunsight descent from the summit.
Submitted by: vegastradguy on 2008-12-01
Route ID: 57492
Tend to agree with the others. A hard 5.10 lead on those last two pitches. A ton of stemming. Still feeling it and I am a flexible old dude. I led the longer third pitch. Real fun and super protected. The 2nd pitch was a good one too. Will have to give this route fives stars for quality even though it is not that long. We combined with Hourglass diversion for a total of seven pitches. You do not have to walk off at the top of Hourglass. To your left is a bolted rap station that will take your directly back to the top of Nightcrawler with double 60's. I have done all the routes on this wall. High Anxiety and Pro Choice are also good routes. With Joe A.
Great climb. Probably my favorite I've done in Red Rock, although there's still a lot of great climbs I have yet to do. The descent gully was still full of snow and ice from that blizzard last month. Hiking down took forever and required an extra rappel. I wish we had gotten an early start so we could have spent more time enjoying the summit instead of rushing to get down. If you've never topped out Brownstone Wall, it's well worth climbing the last pitch. It's an impressive ridge with a great view off the backside.
I think Catherine and I found out the meaning of nightcrawler.... you have to squirm your way up a flaring v-slot....very akin to the one on "thin ice" in the Needles; which goes at 10b... you decide. Personally the thin ice was easier. Give the grade overall.. 10d... imho. I can imagine alot of cursing goin on in that chimney from time to time... heh heh. Wonderful "backcountry" experience ... at least by Vegas standards. Do it...