Hourglass Diversion climbs the first two pitches of The Nightcrawler. Pitches 3-5 are Hourglass Diversion.
Start down and right of the distinctive Hourglass feature on Brownstone Wall on white rock.
P-1 Climb up the low angle, broken up cracks on white rock. Protection scant on the initial moves, but climbing easy. Veer slightly left to catch a steeper crack. Follow the crack for a ways, then traverse about 8 feet left, to bolted anchor. (below the obvious varnished wide crack and chimney)165ft.
P-2 Climb and wiggle up the stellar chimney (you will find intermittent protection opportunities in the deep corner of the chimney). Climb up to a right facing corner to bolted anchor. 140ft.
P-3 Traverse right on a low angle ramp to the base of a thin, steep crack. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft.
P-4 Climb up the thin crack. Protects well. Watch out for hollow flakes. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft.
P-5 Climb the continuing crack system that eases up to 4th class terrain. Nearing the top, you will come across a choice of easy slab climbing with no pro for a small section on your right, or a tight, secure squeeze up a narrow chimney directly above you. There's also a fun section of steep, but easy climbing on varnished, pocketed rock on this pitch.
No fixed anchor. 180ft or so.
From top of the route, hike and 3rd class up a bit, then head left to eventually end up at the Gunsight Notch descent.
Not overly impressed. We used it to fill a day with Nightcrawler. Worth doing for that purpose. Rap back down the top two pitches of Nightcrawler and then do the ramp which is kind of neat. Then a slightly chossy corner, looks solid, but a little flaky higher up. The last pitch was pretty uneventful and dirty. Once your reach the top, move a few meters to your left to find a double bolted rap that will take you to the top of Nightcrawler with 60m doubles. With Joe Allan.