Skip to Content

Hourglass Diversion - 5.9

Average Rating = 2.67/5 Average Rating : 2.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
We used standard rack to 3" but saw some spots for a #4.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.33/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Hourglass Diversion climbs the first two pitches of The Nightcrawler. Pitches 3-5 are Hourglass Diversion. Start down and right of the distinctive Hourglass feature on Brownstone Wall on white rock. P-1 Climb up the low angle, broken up cracks on white rock. Protection scant on the initial moves, but climbing easy. Veer slightly left to catch a steeper crack. Follow the crack for a ways, then traverse about 8 feet left, to bolted anchor. (below the obvious varnished wide crack and chimney)165ft. 5.6 P-2 Climb and wiggle up the stellar chimney (you will find intermittent protection opportunities in the deep corner of the chimney). Climb up to a right facing corner to bolted anchor. 140ft. 5.9 P-3 Traverse right on a low angle ramp to the base of a thin, steep crack. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft. 5.4 P-4 Climb up the thin crack. Protects well. Watch out for hollow flakes. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft. 5.9 P-5 Climb the continuing crack system that eases up to 4th class terrain. Nearing the top, you will come across a choice of easy slab climbing with no pro for a small section on your right, or a tight, secure squeeze up a narrow chimney directly above you. There's also a fun section of steep, but easy climbing on varnished, pocketed rock on this pitch. No fixed anchor. 180ft or so. 5.8 From top of the route, hike and 3rd class up a bit, then head left to eventually end up at the Gunsight Notch descent.

Submitted by: snakehuntergirl on 2006-05-19
Views: 589
Route ID: 76787

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2010-03-21 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Hourglass Diversion

Not overly impressed. We used it to fill a day with Nightcrawler. Worth doing for that purpose. Rap back down the top two pitches of Nightcrawler and then do the ramp which is kind of neat. Then a slightly chossy corner, looks solid, but a little flaky higher up. The last pitch was pretty uneventful and dirty. Once your reach the top, move a few meters to your left to find a double bolted rap that will take you to the top of Nightcrawler with 60m doubles. With Joe Allan.

Added: 2010-03-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: laurelja on 2008-11-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars hmmmm

interesting diversion. pitch 2 of hourglass is more of a face climb, since no gear in finger crack for a ways

Added: 2008-11-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: vegastradguy on 2008-10-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars okay

okay route- fragile rock on the 4th pitch, bird shit all over the ramp kind of detracted from it.

Added: 2008-10-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snakehuntergirl on 2006-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Led pitch 1, 3, and 5. fun climb!

Added: 2006-04-21