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Pro Choice - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
4
Standard Rack to 3"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

The route starts roughly 100' to the right of the obvious gully system splitting the Brownstone wall. Pitch 1: Shares the start of the Route "High Anxiety". Begin up, white rock. Climb up 120ft to a sloping ledge. You'll be about 30 ft below and to the right of the rap sling at the belay on HA. Pitch 2: Step right and climb the obvious corner that is capped by a small roof. 2 Bolts protect the moves over the roof. tricky route finding and loose rock will lead you to a crack in a varnished head wall. Pull through the fun and gymnastic head wall to a bolted anchor. 100' 5.10b. Pitch 3: Go slightly right off the belay and climb a steep face. Belay at a ledge with bolts. 5.9 120 ft. Pitch 4: head left from the belay ledge and up the obvious, varnished corner.Climb to a bolt which protects the crux. Roue finding skills will be critical here, as there is more than one way to go. The correct path is not obvious at first. Once above the crux climb the beautiful varnished corner above to a bolted belay. 140 ft 5.11a.

Descent Options:

Rappel the route with 2X 60M ropes. from the top of the 2nd pitch you can reach the ground.

Submitted by: flamer on 2008-03-22
Views: 411
Route ID: 92608

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2010-01-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Pro Choice

That key pitch is on some incredible black rock, typical of high up on Brownstone Wall. Just one 5.11, well protected move, which I did with a balanced reach on slick rock, my partner stemmed it which I thought was more difficult. My move might be height dependent. NOTICE ON RAPPEL. I have climbed High Anxiety and knew there was no lower rap as per the book description, but thought a rap station might have been added out left. Not so, we had to leave a biner on one of the bolts on the 2nd pitch of High Anxiety. At the top of the 3rd pitch of Pro Choice on a huge ledge are two rap stations. The right one leads down to the the 2nd pitch station which needs another link or biner, then doubles should get you to the ground. The left one is the one that no longer connects lower down, but is where you need to belay that 4th pitch.

Added: 2010-01-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2010-01-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Pro Choice

With Dow Williams. Led pitches 2 and 4, he and I both did the crux differently. A fine climb, watch out for tricky rappel descent: there is only one rap ring atop the second pitch. Hey Flamer, I'd give it 5.10b/c.

Added: 2010-01-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Scenery
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2008-03-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun route

not sure it's 5.11a...you tell me.

Added: 2008-03-22