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Black Dagger - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.40/5 Average Rating : 4.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Joe Herbst, Rick Wheeler
Rock (Trad)
PG13
6
standard rack to #4 camalot- a big piece may reduce the stress on pitch 3, but isnt necessary.
800
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.25/5
  Rock Quality 4.12/5
  Scenery 4.75/5
  Fun Factor 4.62/5

Description:

This spectacular route lies on the southern part of the Brownstone Wall, high above Juniper Canyon. Approach via Juniper Canyon, the route starts just right of a blocky section of white rock below the obvious dihedral above.

Pitch 1: Climb the crack to the ramp above, then step left to belay below the roof. 150', 5.6

Pitch 2: Climb left for 15', then up to the lip of the roof, then cross right and up a few feet to a bolted belay. 60', 5.7R. Variation- Climb straight up, through the roof, to the bolted belay. 20', 5.10aR

Pitch 3: Head up the corner on the left, eventually gaining the perfect dihedral seen from below. Ascend this for 100' to a good ledge. 180', 5.8

Pitch 4: Tunnel through the chimney above, heading left when options present themselves. Climb through a hole that lands you on a very nice ledge. 100', 4th class.

Pitch 5: Climb the low angle arete on the left on the red rock above (no pro, 5.4), eventually gaining a nice crack. Climb this to a ledge below an obvious roof system. 100', 5.7

Pitch 6: Climb up the slab to the roof, go through the roof, then climb up for 80' to a good ledge and belay. 120', 5.7

From here, head straight up for 100' to the unroping spot on 3rd class terrain. Stop and enjoy the views, then head up further, following cairns, to the descent.

Descent Options:

Descend by heading west, then south and dropping into the gunsight. Ignore the rap slings at the notch- they are not needed. Work down the gully, evenutally making one short rappel (dont rap all the way down the chimney- it eats ropes). Once you hit the l

Submitted by: fanederhand on 2007-03-23
Views: 1478
Route ID: 9915

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20 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mattkuehl on 2010-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good Climb, Potential Hard Descent

The approach was alright, pretty standard until the slabby section, but well marked with cairns. The climb is easy to follow for the most part, but I bypassed the "4th class" tunnel for the 5.9 face, although the rock quality is questionable here. A fun and adventurous climb with several long runouts. We started this route way to late and had to hike off in the dark, which made for a long and sometimes scary descent. Start early enough and it should be a good day.

Added: 2010-10-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: trevzilla on 2009-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Black Dagger

Spectacular! Really long approach though. Took us two hours+ to get to the base of the climb. Our guide book said only an hour and a half. Psh! Anyway, it was well worth the hike. Plus no crowds!

Added: 2009-03-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: brianmb99 on 2009-01-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome route

Climbed with Cliff D.

Handren guidebook lists this as 5.7+, but Cliff and I agree that the Handren ratings are way sandbagged on every pitch.

My favorite route that I've climbed in my short climbing career.




Added: 2009-01-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dowww on 2008-10-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Black Dagger

With Patrick. Not quite what I was expecting. Not as good as Armatron in my opinion. Two neat pitches though, #2 and #3. Climbed Myster Z to get to Brownstone Wall this time, that is a pleasant way to ascend to this level vs hiking past Crimson. Did not have to lie back or anything on the 3rd pitch. Seems 5.7 to me. I understand the two run outs might be a bit much for new climbers. Great rock though. Pitch 2 had much more exposure of course and the rock not as sound, but fun and exciting to do. Do not have to rap on this descent, can squeeze down everywhere. I did take a #5 which makes sense for a placement at the beginning of the first run out on the 3rd pitch. Cheers.

Added: 2008-10-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2008-01-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Black Dagger

Like many Herbst routes, this is an outstanding climb following a prominent feature. First belay is bolted, then there's an odd bolted station just above the roof. Pitch 2 has a couple of 5.7 moves, the 3rd pitch is sustained 5.7 with holds that appear just when you need them. We screwed up the approach and it took 1:25, the route takes 2-3 hours of climbing. A nice day in the hills with a tremendous view from the top of Brownstone. Swapped leads with B. Parry, I took the odds.

Added: 2008-02-01

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