Skip to Content

As the Cliff Turns - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.60/5 Average Rating : 3.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 107
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
Premier Sponsor:
Todd Swain and Kathy Beuttler
Rock
G
1
G
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Start is at a short thin crack next to Scuttlebutt. Climg thin crack straight up to left side of first overhang. Climb left into short left facing corner and overhang with crack. Work up crack to horizontal. Work up to overhang, step right and work up to the ceiling/crack. Move through crack and then up slab to tree belay on right

Descent Options:

Rap off tree

Submitted by: jhwnewengland on 2004-06-15
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 813
Route ID: 32096

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2014-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Felt easy and well protected today.

5.4 stuff leads to gear about 1/2 way up the face. Good gear through both cruxes. Moves through the upper roof felt very easy, just get your feet high and reach for the rails.

Added: 2014-09-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2013-07-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Feels harder than an 8

Found the bottom crux to be straight forward. Upper crux felt difficult today.

Added: 2013-07-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: gblauer on 2013-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars really fun climb

Two distinct cruxes...lots of fun. Great roof exit.

Added: 2013-04-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sweetblood on 2008-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars This is a 5.9

Great moves, a little dirty. I had no problems until the second crux over the roof. I got a good nut in over my head, but couldn't muster the strength (courage) to get over it, so I down climbed a bit, set up a good anchor and got lowered. Mike J. followed my pro to the top (the reach on the last move was not a problem for him). He wasn't able to clean two of the nuts, so when he got down, despite the darkness, I decided to have another go. I led the climb again, this time in the dark, with a headlamp, and was able to clean the nuts. I topped out with the 5.6 variation, the original route, thus bypassing that last difficult move. (The hanging thorn bush was a small price to pay.) But I'll be back...

Added: 2008-11-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: local_guy on 2008-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars a little dirty

but cool moves

Added: 2008-10-22