Routes : North America : United States : New York : Upstate : The Gunks : Near Trapps : As the Cliff Turns
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As the Cliff Turns - 5.9
Average Rating : 3.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 107
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Todd Swain and Kathy Beuttler
Rock
G
1
G
80
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Description:
Start is at a short thin crack next to Scuttlebutt. Climg thin crack straight up to left side of first overhang. Climb left into short left facing corner and overhang with crack. Work up crack to horizontal. Work up to overhang, step right and work up to the ceiling/crack. Move through crack and then up slab to tree belay on rightDescent Options:
Rap off tree
Submitted by: jhwnewengland on 2004-06-15
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 1105
Route ID: 32096
5 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
Felt easy and well protected today.
5.4 stuff leads to gear about 1/2 way up the face. Good gear through both cruxes. Moves through the upper roof felt very easy, just get your feet high and reach for the rails.
Added: 2014-09-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Feels harder than an 8
Found the bottom crux to be straight forward. Upper crux felt difficult today.
Added: 2013-07-27
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
really fun climb
Two distinct cruxes...lots of fun. Great roof exit.
Added: 2013-04-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Red Point ascent by:
This is a 5.9
Great moves, a little dirty. I had no problems until the second crux over the roof. I got a good nut in over my head, but couldn't muster the strength (courage) to get over it, so I down climbed a bit, set up a good anchor and got lowered. Mike J. followed my pro to the top (the reach on the last move was not a problem for him). He wasn't able to clean two of the nuts, so when he got down, despite the darkness, I decided to have another go. I led the climb again, this time in the dark, with a headlamp, and was able to clean the nuts. I topped out with the 5.6 variation, the original route, thus bypassing that last difficult move. (The hanging thorn bush was a small price to pay.) But I'll be back...
Added: 2008-11-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
a little dirty
but cool moves
Added: 2008-10-22
