Top bolts for Goldilocks will be on side-pull; down-climb to tree on large ledge.
This cliff faces Lower Ledge Springs Trail, with a pine tree hugging the cliff at left and Goldilocks turned back from the right end. Rock is many thin quartzy layers that do not offer more cling grip than pinch, some juggy ledges, but no solid resting places: you do it all the way to the upper ledge--if you picked a good line. For that, it's scarier than it may look.
Submitted by: Rmsyll on 2007-11-28
Route ID: 89593
Back at this little monster after a few years, and it was a very hard time for me again. Made it clean, but took a fifteen minute rest before doing it again. Second time, knowing where the holds would be, was easier but still not easy. I still do not believe this is 5.7: too thin, too vertical and back-sloped, no rest, long awkward holds hunting for something good enough to rely on to move up. No good anchor either. Best thing about it is that it is almost always open, especially if you rig from the lower dangerously sloped slippery deck.