New bolted anchors atop block. Rope may hang away from wall.
The gray lumpy slope to the left of "Howdy Dude" and to the right of "Any Major Dude", facing lower Ledge Springs Trail, with an odd block perched over its top. Many foot and hand holds; but a small overhang above the middle can give some trouble. Watch also for loosely sandy smooth strata. Up the center and then to the left is the usual line.
Submitted by: chouinard16 on 2007-11-28
Last Modified: 2012-01-12
Route ID: 86832
I was able to find a hold today to get out from under the little overhang trap, but still cannot find any way this is easy. What looks like a hold is rounded and sandy. An inexperienced climber will not find enough to grab and hold. Joe and Stacey thought 5.8, and I'm going to agree, to counteract the notion of putting beginners here. You must have very long rigging for this, too.
Having recently watched a kid being coaxed and urged up this route by his parents and taking a very long time largely with him cowering in terror, my experience today was humiliating: I almost did not make it, either time. The start is way overhung; up the notch and left makes for some long reaches and awkward contortions that dead-end at the overhang; right side is more steady but even thinner and backsloped, and you still have the overhang to get around. It looks sloped and featured, but it does not climb like it looks. It's also very sandy. My full sympathy for all the beginners put on this thing as "easy" and finding it very difficult: you're right.
Rigging with slings on the rocks was not good for the slings on the rocks; but the trees are a long way back from the little notch. On rappel, the upper chimney is difficult to guide through, and then you are in space: also not a fun first experience for many for good reason.