Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Pilot Mountain : Three Bears : Any Major Dude
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Any Major Dude - 5.11d
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Rock (Toprope)
PG13
Overhanging belay with tree danger, rig anchors above for line of climb.
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Description:
Very steep and sheer face around the corner from the Three Bears, with multi-overhang finish, like a shorter version of left wall of Amphitheater. Main line is up center along the pitons to a narrow horizontal crack at roof. Move right to pull overhang crux with left-hand high reach and right arm bar. The "d" is for leading it Sport.
Submitted by: joshy8200 on 2008-09-27
Views: 303
Route ID: 752
Most Recent Photo
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6 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 6 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Such a Good Climb!
This is a fantastic climb. Definitely a sustained 5.11. Traverse right briefly for a nice rest spot halfway to the roof. Rest here before traversing back left to the route line and climb thin crimpy face holds up to HUGE JUGS just before the roof. Take a rest here because this roof is definitely a 5.11 move as well. Once you get your feet high enough, you're homefree! Huge jugs finish out the route. To TR, hang from the conveniently located pine tree! Didn't get it clean this time, had to rest on the rope at the overhang.
Added: 2009-07-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Such a Good Climb!
This is a fantastic climb. Definitely a sustained 5.11. Traverse right briefly for a nice rest spot halfway to the roof. Rest here before traversing back left to the route line and climb thin crimpy face holds up to HUGE JUGS just before the roof. Take a rest here because this roof is definitely a 5.11 move as well. Once you get your feet high enough, you're homefree! Huge jugs finish out the route. To TR, hang from the conveniently located pine tree! Didn't get it clean this time, had to rest on the rope at the overhang.
Added: 2009-07-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
made it to the horizontal
The crux is just above the horizontle. Really interesting moves. It was probably 10d up to that
Added: 2009-02-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Was Kelley wrong?
Jeff gave this three stars and 5.11 and describes the piton line (and approves them for use, advised for safety for bad swing). But that, according to Kelley, is the 5.10 "Minor Dudes" variation. He said the main route was to the "horizontal crack. Climb the left crack." Well, there is a crack over there, in the roof and above on the upper face; but the master who did it today says that looks too easy to be the route, and he confirmed again that pulling the overhang toward the right is way 5.11 and definitely the route to climb. Or, try to. The face is about 5.11 too, sorry. And there is nothing easy about the following overhangs.
Two standard runners will do fine, btw: look for the little rock under the tip of the big block. If you fall on the face on top-rope, however, the tree is waiting for you. If you brought 'em, clip 'em in.
Two standard runners will do fine, btw: look for the little rock under the tip of the big block. If you fall on the face on top-rope, however, the tree is waiting for you. If you brought 'em, clip 'em in.
Added: 2008-02-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.1 V0 WI1 A0 M1 F |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Exciting route
Crimp, crimp, crimp, side pull, side pull, pinch, side pull...
Added: 2007-12-08
