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WOSL - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
R
1
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

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Submitted by: nnop on 2011-03-27
Views: 387
Route ID: 108220

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Had to Climb It Again

Now that I have been climbing at Stone Mountain for a little while, I decided to lead this route again. I was not nervous like I was the first time but it is still a serious route and very committing. I would have to say this route is closer to 5.9 than 5.8.

The route mostly follows a dark water stain straight up to the tree ledge. I started just to the right of the groove on some decent holds and climbed up until there was a flake to my left. I stepped across the groove to the flake and placed two small cams so that I would have some protection before the bolt.

It is also possible to start at the crack that is usually used for Father Knows Best and climb to the left at the top of the crack. This way looked a little easier and allows for cam or nut placements in the small crack.

Once I placed my cams, I stepped back across the groove and headed straight for the lone bolt. Keep in mind that this bolt is even with the first bolt on Father Knows Best and due to the slope of the ground, this route is a little bit longer. A running belay is a must on this route. I did not need it but it was nice knowing it was there. There is no more protection at all past the bolt and no way to escape. I carefully followed the dark rock up to a large block on the tree ledge and moved right to use the belay rings. The climbing is a little sfiff and just as difficult or more than Father Knows Best. Do not attempt climbing this route if you are not comfortable with the grade or the long runout. A fall from up high would put you on the ground without a running belay.

Added: 2012-05-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-03-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Dangerous Route

This route is the second route to the left of Entrance Crack. The 5.8 grade seems a bit too low for this route, especially compared to other routes. I completed Mercury's Lead the same day and this route was more difficult. There is only one bolt, with no chance of additional protection after it has been clipped. If you were to slip near the top of this route, a groundfall is all but guaranteed. I would not recommend leading this route. I have to admit, I was nervous on this route, especially near the top. Having completed it, I will not try it again.

Added: 2011-04-17