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Father Knows Best - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.38/5 Average Rating : 3.38 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Paul Thor Pelot
Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
2 bolts
130
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 2.83/5

Description:

Climb stright up the bolted line to the left of Entrance Crack. Bolted anchor at top. This is the same anchor as the rap line for Entrance Crack.

Submitted by: jsj7051 on 2009-12-12
Last Modified: 2011-03-27
Views: 1053
Route ID: 102990

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8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just a Little Too Hot Today

I lead this route again just so that I could compare it to WOSL, which I had just climbed. The actual climbing is about the same, maybe even a little easier. The extra bolt makes this route a whole lot easier mentally. It may just be due to the fact that I have climbed this route several times already, but even the bulge before the first bolt seemed quite easy. There was a little section about 20 feet from the end that was a little tough due to a lack of good holds. Otherwise, it is a fun little route and I would recommend leading it.

Added: 2012-05-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2012-02-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars that ain't no 5.8

Well, the moon and stars came into alignment and I felt weirdly compelled to lead this today. Worked out fine but it's a heady trip for sure. Would have enjoyed it a good bit more and felt less like I had just decided to roll the dice if there were a couple more bolts, particularly one between the last bolt and the anchor - that section is kinda hard, or at least tenuous. There are parts of this route that actually feel like featured 5.8 sections of say, the Pulpit, but there are many more moments of pure slabbin' and desperately hoping your foot will stick or you will face a really long fall. I seemed to remember more contiguous features to work with from my prior TR but in reality it's at best several full-on moves between things that actually seem like edges, bulges or marginal flat spots. Started freaking out a bit imagining what a fall would have looked like here... 5.9R

Added: 2012-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-10-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Lead To End The Day

After climbing Autumn Speaks, I had a little time before the park closed so I decided to head up this route again. It seemed much easier this time around. I still started below the right angling crack, placing several cams as I climbed. At the end of the crack there is a ledge with a small bulge above it. I climbed over the bulge and headed to the first bolt. I took a mostly straight line to the next bolt over some flaky rock that provided good holds when it didn't break off. The climbing above the second bolt seemed a little more difficult but was still not that bad. I did not use a running belay but it may be wise to do so. It sure was nice to be back at Stone.

Added: 2011-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Felt Tougher Than 5.8

I started on the small crack that is slightly left of the line. It will hold smaller cams if needed. From there, I just followed a mostly straight line through the two bolts up to the rappel anchors at the top. This route is a little hairy for a 5.8 and should be climbed with caution. The climbing really isn't that bad for a slab route and having the second bolt does give the climber more confidence. If your nerves get the best of you, it is possible to traverse right and finish on Entrance Crack.

Added: 2011-05-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: up_for_a_good_time on 2011-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Not again...

Worst idea ever. Looming thunderstorms. Ground fall....bolt....ground fall.....bolt....no holds...ground fall....rain...bail right in last 8 feet. I'm counting it though. Hardest 5.8 I've ever done....ever. Oh, started left in crack.

Added: 2011-04-11

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