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Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
1
Cams, nuts, tree slings - no bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

The route is located between Captain Crunch on the left and WOSL on the right. There is an obvious crack leading up to the left with vegetation growing from it. This route is listed as Deception Crack in Dixie Crystals: A Climber's Guide To Stone Mountain. The name fits well, as it is more difficult than it appears. Follow the crack as best as possible until hitting a group of small pines. It will be necessary to slab climb alongside the crack is some spots due to the lack of holds in the crack itself. There is currently a large tree limb across the lower section of the route that can be climbed over, or under (more difficult), and can be slung for protection. When reaching the group of pines, the route should be followed up and to the right. Above the pines are nothing but trees and brush and to the left is the top of Captain Crunch. There is a small, obvious clearing beside a large pine where the route ends. Stay below the bushes along the way, there are better holds and less mosses and lichens. There will be some runout from your last sling at the small pines until you reach the end. Be careful of the large amounts of plant debris on the rock, try to keep your next holds cleaned in advance.

Descent Options:

Rappel from any of the normal rap stations on the tree ledge. The anchors above Father Knows Best work well. Will require two ropes or one 70M with a very short downclimb from the cracks at the base of the cliff, just to the right of the actual line.

Submitted by: nnop on 2011-03-27
Last Modified: 2011-05-30
Views: 446
Route ID: 108219

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-05-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not the Cleanest Route

Lead the route in a single pitch while still mostly in the shade. The route starts between WOSL and Captain Crunch. There are no bolts but there is a very obvious crack leading up to the left with grass and small trees growing out of it. The crack is very dirty and does not provide the holds that would be expected of a crack its size. There is also a tree limb growing across the lower section of the route, which I slung for protection before climbing over it. I was able to place a few cams in the crack for protection and slung a few more small pine trees further up. I mostly slab climbed beside the crack rather than using the crack for holds. The upper section of the route is covered in trees and bushes and I am not really sure where the original line would have ended. I had two choices, go left and end at the Rice Crispies belay, or go right just below the bushes to an opening beside a large pine tree. The right looked more like the proper line. It was a bit runout from the last protection and the climbing was a little difficult due to the large amounts of debris on the rock but it was still fun. I had to climb up over the roots of the pine tree to reach the tree ledge. There was a nice tree to sit on and use for a belay just above the end of the rock. The route is a little difficult and needs to be cleaned up. I wouldn't recommend it unless you are just trying to complete every route at Stone.

Added: 2011-05-22