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Captain Crunch - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Paul Thor Pelot
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
PG13
Quite runout with 3 bolts in 180 feet.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.17/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 3.17/5
  Fun Factor 3.83/5

Description:

Located on the South Face 25 or 30 feet to the right of Crystal Lizard. Hard friction to the second bolt about 65 feet off the deck. Eases off quite a bit after that. The "running belay" that Stone is famous for can be very useful on this route. More steep friction fun to get to the Tree Ledge. This route got its name in part due to the groundfall taken by FA Paul Pelot while drilling the second bolt. Climb the steep slab following a black water streak, passing three bolts. A tricky move over a bulge takes you to the final stretch to the top.

Submitted by: emilb on 2004-03-29
Last Modified: 2011-03-18
Views: 1322
Route ID: 50623

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-03-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just Playing Around

I feel like a complete chump listing a top-rope ascent but I just didn't have my nerve for a lead. The rating of this route is only valid for lead climbing. Climbing on top-rope sterilizes it to the point where anyone could get up it. It is a good way to learn the moves for a lead climb since a fall could be very dangerous. Anyone wanting the full effect needs to climb this on lead, which I plan on doing again when the temp stays a little warmer. Just make sure to have a running belay and good belayer.

Added: 2012-03-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jsaunders on 2011-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars TR

couple ways to finish it. felt like this time i found the actual 11a move directly in the center of the bulge. killer move on tiny holds

Added: 2011-10-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tough Lead

This route definitely pushed me to the limit of my abilities. This was my first time on the route and I was determined to onsight it. About ten to fifteen feet after the first bolt, my chances at an onsight were gone as I made my second fall at Stone Mountain. I had an excellent belayer that was using the Stone style of belaying and I only slid 15 to 20 feet. I wear fingerless gloves and I didn't even so much as get a scratch as I slid on the palms of my hands and soles of my shoes. I immediately got back on route and was able to finish without any further troubles. I did receive some beta from a passerby that had toproped the route before and witnessed my slide.

The route begins directly below the first bolt, which is difficult slab with some small holds. I found it to be more difficult climbing from the first to the second bolt. There were a few challenging moves using micro holds. There is a nice, very visable nub below the second bolt, I let out a huge sigh of relief as I grabbed it. From the second bolt, past the third, to the bottom of a large bulge/overhang is much easier climbing. I placed two cams under the bulge - a #1 and #2 BD Camalot. The move up onto the bulge is very tricky and would be very difficult for shorter people. After several minutes of studying and failed attempts, I was able to place my right foot under the bulge on a slightly raised spot, my left foot up high on the bulge on a small hold slightly bigger than a pencil eraser, my left hand above my left foot on a nice thumb hold, and my right hand in a small dish to my right. I used all of these placements together to make a very difficult (for me) mantle move up onto the bulge. Once on the bulge, I aimed for the belay anchors on Rice Krispies, as there was nothing but vegetation directly above me. The moment I finished, a wicked thunderstorm blew in. I was able to get to the ground just as the rain started.

Do not lead this route if you are not well versed in slab or without having a running belay set up below.

Added: 2011-06-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jsj7051 on 2009-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Hard

Hats of to the FA. This is slick unless you move just left after the 1st bolt . sliped a couple times but my footing caught. It's a work out

Added: 2009-04-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: thorgon on 1992-08-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First Ascent

I put up this route and decked hand-drilling the first bolt! Stepped on my hammer while shaking out my calf. The route is hard to the second bolt and is just right of Rice Krispies. On the FA I used a #4 (I Think) Camalot in the horizontal crack at the roof. Hope gets a lot of traffic and I found it very fun!

Paul "Thor" Pelot

Added: 2008-12-17

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