Skip to Content

Name Unknown - 5.3

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Cams, nuts, one fixed pin
130
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

Same start as Freddie's Dead but when the corner begins to turn left, make a move to the right up onto a ramp that goes right. At the end of the ramp, head straight up the steep, featured face. There are plenty of cracks and pockets in which to insert cams. Once through the steep section, the climbing becomes much easier and passes a fixed pin. This pin appears to be used as a belay for several routes. The rock continues on to a nice flake near the top that could be used for a belay or on a little further to a large tree at the end of the exposed rock. There is also a 5.9 direct start over a bulge at the base of the route.

Descent Options:

Walk off to the left on the obvious trail.

Submitted by: johnnyb336 on 2011-09-06
Views: 414
Route ID: 109832

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bkplmmns on 2014-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Toughest 5.3 Ever

This climb, like Freddie's Dead, is sandbagged. This one is a solid 5.5. Midway to the pins, there is a blank traverse to the right, and if you take a fall there, it will end your day. However, there is a strong crack prior to the traverse. I placed double protection there prior to venturing out onto the face. This climb is not clean and, therefore, most placements are questionable.

Used the pins to belay the second, but I added a couple chocks to surrounding cracks to enforce the pins. I would not belay off the pins alone.

You could probably single pitch this with a long enough rope. But, we split it into two pitches and walked off to the left after completion.

Added: 2014-11-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Evandoyer on 2013-12-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Favorite Top-Rope

I have climbed variations of this many times, usually setting a top rope in the ledge above the Dark in Bad buttress or in the chunks above the steeper section. It's a great warm-up, but it gets crowded during the summer weekends. If you climb the left spine of the buttress there is some good pro and it's closer to a 5.5.

Added: 2014-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Just Showing Another Climbing Partner the Routes

I only climbed this route again for the benefit of my climbing partner, but I have to admit that this one is a little fun. I probably wouldn't waste any time on it again if I were to return. Everything looks the same as my last visit.

Added: 2011-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Easy But Fun

This route is closer to a 5.4 in the steeper section. It is fairly easy to follow and has several options for belaying. I chose to continue to the tree at the very top, making it 130' or so. Protection is very easy to place, cams being the easiest choice. Use the trail on the left to walk off.

Added: 2011-09-06