Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : West Face : TM's Deviation
TM's Deviation - 5.10a
Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
TM Herbert, Burce Cooke, 1968
Rock (Trad)
G
2
Cams .5-6" Nuts 1 set
200
|
|
Description:
Another classic Tahoe squeeze chimney. Start up the West chimney and shoot out right just before the top of the pitch into an alcove with beautifull orange lichen just under a exciting looking steep hand crack in a flairing chimney. Climb up the flareing chimney (easier than it looks) and into a bombay squeeze chimney. Place that pro up high and wiggle your way up to a huge jug, then pull your way through a short finger crack and up an easy dihedral to the top.Descent Options:
Walk off the top.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-11-18
Last Modified: 2010-02-22
Views: 1307
Route ID: 81243
4 Ascents Recorded
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Second ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-03-08
(View Climbing Log)
hard squeeze chimney
I am not good at chimney climbing and I am glad I did not lead it. Figured out the right move after several attempts. I will come back to lead it some day.
Great route.
Great route.
Added: 2014-03-10
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2012-02-04
(View Climbing Log)
Good
A pretty good chimney that appears a lot harder than it really is. I climbed it with 1 number 4 and a few smaller pieces and didn't even see a place where you would be able to place anything bigger. Watch out at the very top for the rope eating crack or else the top-out blows.
Added: 2012-02-05
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: retro67 on 2010-02-17
(View Climbing Log)
Nice
Fun route with different techniques involved. I think harder than 5.9. Watch out for rope eating crack after exiting chimney over the lip.
Added: 2010-02-18
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2006-11-12
(View Climbing Log)
Like Eeyores Enigma
The first pitch is lame but goes quickly and is well worth doing for the second. Steep butt scumming with good feet, hand jams and bomber gear leads to a wild bombay chimney then finishes off with a short finger crack. Classic I say...
Oh yeah, forget what the guide says, bring a #5 BD. You won't be kicking yourself for doing so.
Oh yeah, forget what the guide says, bring a #5 BD. You won't be kicking yourself for doing so.
Added: 2006-11-24