Starts to the left of Wallflower almost on the arete. Climb a Steep overhanging hands and fingers crack. Move into the left crack when you can and lieback your way to the steep dikes above. Avoid following the crack out to the right near the top as it is crispy and leads to nowhere.
Rappel from the fixed anchors on top back into the bowl with a 70m rope. A 60m rope might make it???!
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2011-07-24
Route ID: 109442
Got the red point on the second try. The jams are bomber and the locks are tight but it's so overhanging you start to burn out real quick. All the pro is obvious, abundant and good. Traverse left at the fixed nuts into a strenuous lieback. Above is some steep 5.9 dikes where you have to run it out like 15ft to the anchors. A fall from there would be safe but scary as hell. This is one of the Leaps premier leads and is an absolute must do for anyone who can have any chance in hell at leading a .12.