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Batmans Nightmare - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Dan Osman (1989)
Rock (Trad)
Cams to 2" Doubles in fingers to medium sizes. Nuts 1 set.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Starts to the left of Wallflower almost on the arete. Climb a Steep overhanging hands and fingers crack. Move into the left crack when you can and lieback your way to the steep dikes above. Avoid following the crack out to the right near the top as it is crispy and leads to nowhere.

Descent Options:

Rappel from the fixed anchors on top back into the bowl with a 70m rope. A 60m rope might make it???!

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2011-07-24
Views: 648
Route ID: 109442

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: salamanizer on 2011-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars STEEP!!!

Got the red point on the second try. The jams are bomber and the locks are tight but it's so overhanging you start to burn out real quick. All the pro is obvious, abundant and good. Traverse left at the fixed nuts into a strenuous lieback. Above is some steep 5.9 dikes where you have to run it out like 15ft to the anchors. A fall from there would be safe but scary as hell. This is one of the Leaps premier leads and is an absolute must do for anyone who can have any chance in hell at leading a .12.

Added: 2011-07-24