In the middle of the Golden Wall to the left of 'Devil in the White House'. Overhang start, also used for 'Ethics in Bondage', will probably take some practice on TR. Climb the face with two bolts to an overhang pull to a bolt, more roof moves to the top with a poor stance.
Submitted by: euphoriagtrst on 2007-12-16
Last Modified: 2011-08-16
Route ID: 51175
Flashed on TR. The first move is a doozy for a short person. I wound up dyno-ing, sticking my left hand over the roof, then crossing with my right, sticking a right heel hook, and pulling the roof. The rest was cake.
It is only 11 off the ground, with a bouldering move that put you horizontal. Then there is good gear until you reach the first bolt. getting to the first bolt isn't too bad and the next "crux" is past the 1st to the 2nd. There is a left sidepull that is hard to see, but make the move not so bad. The rest is steep jugs. There are anchors at the top. Overall this is less strenuous than Devil in the Whitehouse, but a little more technical.