Blind Prophet - 5.12c

First half only - skipped the roof. Tried again and set up TR via traverse from OH anchors to B+BV anchors. Not too hard, just be careful and don't slip into the pendulum! Still felt pretty tough and I wanted to add another piece of gear to help manage the swing factor as you unclip the bolt and come under the first small roof and around the arete. That swing adds too much spice to a challenging move. Come at this one feeling strong, it's tougher and more sustained than OH.

Climbed a TR someone put up on this (thanks Ed!) and loved it. Fun and kind of hard face moves up to the roof section. The roof was a bit tricky without much in the way of feet and a long reach to a jug. That roof move was pretty strong. Just above the leader had placed a cam between the last bolt and the next which was very useful for staying in the right place if one fell off. We ended up on the anchors for black and blue velvet, but the route continues up through the big roof. Recommended, but there was a creepy blood stain (kind of a lot!) at the base of the climb, so be careful if you lead it! Pretty sustained for the grade, and only 11a if you go to the BBV anchors.

loved this route

If you top rope it and fall you have to restart the route. Or kick off the tree and have a quickdraw handy.

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