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Crackin' Up - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 46
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
Rock (Trad)
G
Trad gear; bolted anchors on Turkey Shoot.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 2.67/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Starts just right of Mr. Henar at a deep crack. Climb the strenuous right-facing crack to a roof, then traverse right to the Turkey Shoot anchors. A 5.8 variation is to climb the face right of the crack.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2007-12-19
Views: 714
Route ID: 15634

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20 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2008-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars one of my earliest trad leads

This is a great route for new leaders as it a) takes gear on demand, b) is mostly move/stance/move/stance c) isn't terribly long. Mostly need stuff in the .75-2 or 3 camalot size but I got a few other things in there too. Almost fixed a .75 around the part where you turn the corner and traverse right the second time I got on it. The hardest part is probably traversing to the turkey shoot anchors as that can get a bit slick and is a sudden dramatic change from the style of the rest of the route.

Oh yea, there were also spider webs all over it. I had to use my nut tool to fold the funnels closed! I figure this pays me back for at least a few of the inopportune times the damn thing has stabbed me in the leg, gotten stuck on a rock or my harness in the meantime.

Recommended.

Added: 2009-10-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: limeydave on 2008-12-07 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars versatile

glad i had the knieveltech beta, not sure i'd be able to do it without that.
the second night on this epic, we nearly bailed as we'd run out of food, but we pushed on and made it to the top - also rapping from the top of turkey shoot.

Added: 2008-12-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: knieveltech on 2008-11-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Very enjoyable

Excellent for the grade and one those rare routes at Pilot where the rock is good enough to take gear (in places anyway). The route eats #.5 to #1 cams (or in my case red link cams), only spotted a single small nut placement on the route although I expect it would eat hexes. A weird #5 placement high on the route protects the start of the traverse and avoids setting pro in choss. #1 cam placements in pods at the back of the roof protect the traverse to the anchors. Route climbed VERY well for the grade with excellent jams (fingers to fists), good laybacking, and a sweet knee lock for a no-hands rest. Feet are a little thin on the right side but it's all there. I would definitely suggest this route.

Warning: there's a very loose block marked with an x at about the halfway point. Avoiding it difficult though.

Added: 2008-11-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: MrMeticulous on 2007-11-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Crack kills

A fun crack to mess around on. Easy to practice different techniques. I practically ran up it one time though, just to see...haha.

Added: 2008-10-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: erica on 2008-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good climb

Really nice climb with lots of good gear. Bigger stoppers and hexes, .75 cams and up.

Added: 2008-09-21

... Read all 20 ascent notes