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Overhanging Hangover - 5.11b popular

Average Rating = 4.04/5 Average Rating : 4.04 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 42
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (31)
Rock (Sport)
G
1
Bolts and some pitons; two sets of anchors, high and higher.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.11/5
  Rock Quality 4.22/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

This route follows a rough buttress, starting left of Black and Blue Velvet. Climb past two pitons; odd small arete above has ledge at bottom to prepare for crux move onto overhangs. Head for the roof, pull it and finish to anchors; or, go for second anchors above. Several no-hands rests. One of Pilot's "must do" favorites.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2007-11-28
Last Modified: 2007-12-19
Views: 838
Route ID: 761

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31 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sycamore on 2009-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Finally led it.

Use a purple or green camalot if you want to protect between the first and second bolts. I went ahead and clipped the first two pitons, but I wouldn't recommend falling on them. Most people toprope it, but it makes for a great lead.

Added: 2009-06-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: MikeSaint on 2009-03-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun

Fun climb. To bad my fat ass had to hang on it. Dunno why I bother to log this it was a top rope. Whatever. Haha.

Added: 2009-03-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2009-01-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice to know the beta

It went up pretty easily while hanging the draws -- always nice to return to a route and have that happen -- but then I turned around and had a much harder time on TR. Funny how that goes. Pins are nasty looking, and it is nice to have a piece of gear to protect clipping the 2nd bolt.

Added: 2009-01-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: frankzappa on 2009-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars *

*

Added: 2009-01-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: mjwestla on 2009-01-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars take 2 (and 3)

Tried again on lead. Felt good but took a break and then blew the crux. Almost had it but grabbed the crappy little arete at the last bolt instead of the jug. Took a nice short flight (a clean fall) but got back on and sealed the deal with no further incident.

Update Oct 20 09 - returned and lead it again. This time managed to pull through the moves but had to hangdog just before the crux. Got a MUCH better sequence on that now and a clear idea of where the go-to hold is... Now I've just got to work on endurance and efficiency to link it all together for the redpoint. A great route and quite safe by pilot standards. A cam or nut for the crack before bolt 2 really is the way to go though.

Added: 2009-01-11

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