The right end of the Middle Amphitheater wall projects out, and is a darker color. Start at the middle of that part, straight up to first bolt. Veer right to follow fair grips to high second bolt. Third bolt is slightly left, heading to rings more to the left. Good ledge at rings.
Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2007-12-19
Last Modified: 2011-11-07
Route ID: 15636
Jeff Dillon would not take a no for my answer to his offer of another belay, so up I went. So stressed by this route that he had to keep reminding me to unclip. And forgot to take a right, and did take a brief seat to get back on track. Having done it, can't believe it is really 5.9; but everyone and Jeff says so, so must be--especially on such a wicked lead: Shawn Barb put in a bunch of extra protection pieces. At my teasing challenge, Jeff did go straight up, slick as a cat.
This wall gets running water seeping from under the roof after a lot of rain, so don't count on being able to get on it. Otherwise, get on it.
Nice to finally get a chance at this as the amphitheater was dry for once. Usually this route is a waterfall! Fun moves on good holds if you look around a bit. Definitely runout in places though, as you wouldn't want to screw up your clips! One more bolt probably would have made it reasonable... plus the usual standard Pilot crazy high first bolt, but at least you can clip off of a jug. Interesting to note that as this doesn't get climbed nearly as often as it's neighbors the holds actually still have some good friction left which definitely helps.
Not exactly an onsight but I forget the proper terminology since I a) watched someone put it up and b) they left the draws. I then re-lead it.