The route follow the huge obvious dihedral in the center of the south face. You'll probably be able to recognize it by the line of climbers waiting to start. The approach is a stout 1 hour hike up a talus cone. 4 pitches - 5.6 squeeze chimney, wierd 5.8 hands and fingers, 5.9 crux offwidth(not a sandbag-look hard for the real sequence), and a fun 5.7 pitch either up a squeeze chimney or fun edges. Rap the route to descend, but be careful not to hit anyone on the way down.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2001-10-16
Route ID: 5283
This was my second desert tower. Amazing setting with aggressive climbing. My feet slipped a couple times on the marble-like surface. Unless you're going to take pictures, I'd leave backpacks at the base. The approach is a bear.
Sandstone Sandbag, don't care what anyone says. Be prepared to grovel grovel grovel! calcite blows. Its a great climb, but i feel like i should want to climb the 50 classics again and again. I won't do this route again, not that its bad, to me it's just not worth a repeat. placed a #4 on most every pitch so i dont know why some people say not to bring it.
Also, the first bolt on P3 is useless. There is PERFECT gear a foot above it. the next 2 are nice to have though. I lead 1 and 3 Overall I wouldn't call it PG13, maybe just PG