Nice route in the Chimney on the northeast side of the tower. The first pitch is mostly double hand cracks in a corner with a short move over a bulge at the top of the pitch. The next pitch has a 5.9 offwidth move with an old bolt then climbs over chockstones to a small ledge. Pitch 3 climbs hand cracks up to a stemming move onto a ledge. Climb to where the route joins the Kor Ingalls and belay. The fourth pitch climbs the final 30 feet of that route. Lots of loose rock on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Rap the north face - nice and clean. The 2nd, 3rd and 4th pitches can be linked with a 70 meter rope.
Submitted by: joe on 2004-04-26
Route ID: 5467
I got my arm twisted into this, but it was very,very worth it. The route and exposure up through the chimney are awesome. I hope that bolt has been replaced, I wouldn't trust it to aid on. The rock is polished and that section is thought provoking. we climbed as two seperate parties and just shared the BD#5 at that one critical spot. I am super glad we went with someone who had been there before - the rap stations were bomber, but not completely intuitive.
Did this on a day where the forecasted high was 60 degrees. I was wearing a softshell and was still shivering the whole time in the chimney and could barely feel my fingers. Spectacular climb nonetheless. 1st pitch was a lot more sustained than I was expecting.
Great route. I had already done the North Face and Kor Ingalls. The North Chimney is so much better than the Kor Ingalls. LOL, some gal wrote in the climbers log on top...she did not know whether they had just done the North Face (5.11) vs North Chimney, dude, trust me, if you don't know, you did the North Chimney! Loved the first two pitches, really did, prob best route at the grade 5.8+ in all of the Towers. I combined those last two pitches.