Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Stone Mountain State Park : South Face - Access Routes to Tree Ledge : Entrance Crack
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Entrance Crack - 5.4 popular
Average Rating : 2.96 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (45)
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Rock
Trad climb. Couple of trees to sling on the way up if you like.
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Description:
Two sections to this climb really. The first follows an easy crack up to a ledge with a good-sized tree. The second section is a real pain if its windy. This is a large off width crack that denies use of most pro (unless your packin big bros). Easiest to climb if you stay just right of the crack. You'll also find an exposes bolt half way up that you can sling with a wired nut.
Submitted by: bulldog on 2002-03-12
Last Modified: 2011-03-27
Views: 3940
Route ID: 13508
45 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 45 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.4 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Wider Is Wilder
I led this back in '06 on a road trip and again twice last weekend. It's exactly as advertised. If you want to have a little fun leave your 5"+ gear at home and you'll have a nice 30ft. run out to the ledge on easy climbing.
If you want to feel safe and fuzzy bring 2 or 3 pieces of at least 5" for the top section and you'll be okay. I'm 6'2" and I've got pretty long arms and it's pretty much full extension to get in far enough for a good placement with 5" gear so if you're small bring bigger gear so you don't have to go so far into the crack. The green Big Bros places well in several spots and the blue Big Bros would place in several spots also.
I gave this a G rating since you can easily protect with the right size gear if you want. Just because many climbers choose to do it without (me included) doesn't mean the route is inherently deserving of an R. It's certainly possible to seam it up from bottom to top.
If you want to feel safe and fuzzy bring 2 or 3 pieces of at least 5" for the top section and you'll be okay. I'm 6'2" and I've got pretty long arms and it's pretty much full extension to get in far enough for a good placement with 5" gear so if you're small bring bigger gear so you don't have to go so far into the crack. The green Big Bros places well in several spots and the blue Big Bros would place in several spots also.
I gave this a G rating since you can easily protect with the right size gear if you want. Just because many climbers choose to do it without (me included) doesn't mean the route is inherently deserving of an R. It's certainly possible to seam it up from bottom to top.
Added: 2016-04-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.4 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
gets in your head
I forgot how run out the top half is. More mental than physical on this climb
Added: 2014-10-27
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.4 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Runout
as a way to get to the tree ledge, it is useful, but the second half of this climb is runout. good thing it is easy climbing
Added: 2013-06-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.4 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Needed Fast Access to the Tree Ledge
I needed a really quick route to the tree ledge so I could set up a top-rope for our group and this was the closest route to our gear since we just climbed the Pulpit. This route can be a little deceptive, use caution if not used to climbing at Stone.
Added: 2012-03-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.4 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
fun
followed this time. felt much easier with guide tennies on following
Added: 2011-12-11
