Routes : North America : United States : California : Riverside County : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation
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The Consolation - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.29 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Description:
A beautiful climb about 20' to the left of the Long Climb. The start is a left facing dihedral with a great hand crack that ends on a wide sloping ledge shared with the second pitch of Long Climb. After this is a roof move, and a sustained 5.9 perpendicular hand crack followed by another one for about 15 feet. Join Whodunit 2/3 way up, or continue up, paralleling Whodunit to a flared slot. Belay there and climb the slot (.10a) and continue straight up to wild roof (.9 - .10a). FFA by Royal Robbins and TM Herbert in 1959.
Submitted by: jv on 2003-09-26
Views: 1865
Route ID: 14982
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20 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 20 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
Good times
great route. I managed to get off route on pitch 2 where you are supposed to follow the left facing dihedral to the sloping ledge. However the variation that I followed was classic with 5.8 hand jamming up a different left facing dihedral to about 15 feet of unprotected OW (5.8 at the top). Then you have to sling the pillar you have been climbing, swing around the outside (holy exposure!), and transition back to the regular route. I am sure the route has been done this way before, definitely adds spice. The double corner crack pitch is the reason why I am not shy about driving 4+ hours to Tahquitz for a weekend trip.
Added: 2012-06-27
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
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Great
Great crack climbing. Some loose rock.
Added: 2011-07-21
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Fun day of crack climbing
Climbed with Tom Keefer and John Loomis. I led the first pitch, followed 2 pitches of Constellation in 1 rope length finished at the 1st belay for The Consolation. I thought the second pitch of this route was harder than the crux pitch with the 2 cracks. Over all a great route, one worth going back to do again.
Added: 2011-07-03
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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short and sweet. Fell on crux moves, had to come down and redo it :(
Added: 2011-06-05
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Added: 2010-05-31
