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The Consolation - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.29/5 Average Rating : 4.29 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.45/5
  Rock Quality 4.45/5
  Scenery 4.55/5
  Fun Factor 4.55/5

Description:

A beautiful climb about 20' to the left of the Long Climb. The start is a left facing dihedral with a great hand crack that ends on a wide sloping ledge shared with the second pitch of Long Climb. After this is a roof move, and a sustained 5.9 perpendicular hand crack followed by another one for about 15 feet. Join Whodunit 2/3 way up, or continue up, paralleling Whodunit to a flared slot. Belay there and climb the slot (.10a) and continue straight up to wild roof (.9 - .10a). FFA by Royal Robbins and TM Herbert in 1959.

Submitted by: jv on 2003-09-26
Views: 1303
Route ID: 14982

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20 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2012-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good times

great route. I managed to get off route on pitch 2 where you are supposed to follow the left facing dihedral to the sloping ledge. However the variation that I followed was classic with 5.8 hand jamming up a different left facing dihedral to about 15 feet of unprotected OW (5.8 at the top). Then you have to sling the pillar you have been climbing, swing around the outside (holy exposure!), and transition back to the regular route. I am sure the route has been done this way before, definitely adds spice. The double corner crack pitch is the reason why I am not shy about driving 4+ hours to Tahquitz for a weekend trip.

Added: 2012-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2011-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great

Great crack climbing. Some loose rock.

Added: 2011-07-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: henrytwin_m on 2011-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun day of crack climbing

Climbed with Tom Keefer and John Loomis. I led the first pitch, followed 2 pitches of Constellation in 1 rope length finished at the 1st belay for The Consolation. I thought the second pitch of this route was harder than the crux pitch with the 2 cracks. Over all a great route, one worth going back to do again.

Added: 2011-07-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

short and sweet. Fell on crux moves, had to come down and redo it :(

Added: 2011-06-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: snoopy138 on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars afds

af

Added: 2010-05-31

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