Beautiful pitch with sustained 5.10+ friction moves. Crux comes before the first bolt (25 feet up) so you should be solid at the grade or use a boulder pad. Several notches more difficult than the Tree Ledge friction pitches (e.g. Storm in a teacup and Rainy Day Women).
Submitted by: emilb on 2004-03-29
Last Modified: 2011-03-29
Route ID: 50622
I lead this route after leading The Purring and found it to be tough but not quite as tough as the crux of the previously mentioned route. There did seem to be more fine moss and/or lichens on the rock that made some foot placements a little scary.
There are three bolts on the first pitch with the crux being near the first bolt. I came up just left of the first bolt and my climbing partner climbed just right of the bolt, both ways being of equal difficulty. For the next two bolts, I just aimed for the bolt and tried to take the straightest line possible. There were a few sections that were a little difficult and I did lose my footing a couple of times due to the vegetation. Thankfully, I was prepared each time and didn't fall. It seemed like a long ways from the last bolt to the belay but the climbing was excellent. The rock had good exposure to the sun and was free of the fine, green moss found below.
The second pitch proved to be a little headier than expected and there is no fixed pro. I headed straight up from the belay through some polished rock. I lost my footing several times, without falling, beacause I just couldn't get a grip on the super smooth rock. I felt like this section was nearly as difficult as the lower climbing due to the poor traction. I followed the darker rock up to the left side of the raised rock with a pine tree. I was able to barely place a nut under a horn. I made sure the quickdraw I attached to the nut hung under the horn so that the rope could not pull it loose. I then followed the dark water groove that was carved by the water that comes from the pool in the Oasis. I felt more at risk of a fall on the second pitch than I did on the first. For those that want more protection, head more to the right where there is a nice crack. We stopped at the Oasis but those wanting to continue can finish on the Pulpit.