Wahoo Start - 5.9

Back again. Traversed all the way over to the tree ledge.

I still have a lot of love for this route and try to climb it whenever possible. The jugs up to the first bolt are awesome. There is a small shallow crack below that just sucks for gear placement but is just sketchy enough where you want a piece and then all of a sudden you latch onto the first jug and forget all about gear. It's the couple of moves away from the bolt that makes the route interesting. From there, it is a walk around a pine to another bolt and then the traverse to the Dixie Crystals/Dream Waves belay. I just clipped the belay for pro and kept going to the tree ledge.

I used this route to access Great White Way. Not only did I have to traverse to the belay on Dixie Crystals but I had to traverse from there to the tree ledge. I personally don't mind traverses but my partner didn't care much for it. He knew if he fell he would swing quite a bit since I placed little protection.

What a fun little one pitch route. I like it better each time I climb it. I would highly recommend using this to start Dixie Crystals. I never see anyone climbing in this area so it is easy to jump on. The only real crux is protected by a bolt so it is relatively safe. The traverse can be made several different ways. I always go across up high but my climbing partner is a bit short and finds it easier to step down and cross a little lower.

This route starts with Peer Pressure and splits off just past the first bolt. The bolt is easily seen from the ground and is located on top of a small, left-facing corner with big jugs. There are multiple options for getting started up to the corner, all of fairly equal difficulty. The only problem is that most of the rock is covered with fine lichens. (Anyone wanting exact beta on how to find the base of the route, feel free to email me.)

I chose to start just to the left and pull myself up with a nice jug. The crack under the corner is too shallow for most gear placements so don't bother. A few minor moves will get you to two very large jugs stacked on top of each other that eliminate the need for footholds, or protection. The bolt is just above the jugs. This is where the climb gets interesting. Step out to the right on a small but obvious foothold, preferably with the left foot. Pinch a nice crystal just above you with the left hand and reach way out to the right for another nice crystal that will allow you to stand on the foothold. Smear your right foot over a pea sized crystal and crimp your way up, placing your left foot on the crystal that you originally had your right hand on. If you can pull it off without slipping, the climb now turns easy. I made it, along with two followers, without slipping but I had to move quickly to make my feet stick. Now, head to the top of a big flake on the right with small pines growing out of it. Don't bother with cams, the climbing is easy and there is a bolt on the wall just above the flake. From the right side of the flake make a fairly easy traverse over to the belay rings for Dream Waves/Dixie Crystals. At about the midpoint of the traverse it is necessary to step down several feet, however, the friction is great and there are several good holds. This route is nothing more than an alternate start for routes using the previously mentioned belay station. The two bolts provide protection just where it is needed and no additional pro is needed.