Skip to Content

The Purring - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 31
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Good pro (stn. mtn. standards) on first pitch, no protection second pitch.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Our party rappelled down onto the pitch 1 anchors from the oasis and top roped so feel free to add. Pitch 1 is well protected so most must do this, then rappel. Pitch 2...it needs bolts. It was a great end of day test piece than can be done on lead by a strong slab climber.

Submitted by: nedsurf on 2005-02-27
Last Modified: 2011-03-29
Views: 700
Route ID: 64367

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Tough But Fun Lead

This was the first of five routes that we climbed for the day. I lead all pitches on each route, which doesn't bother my climbing partner at all. I would have to say this was a fairly tough lead with potential for a nasty fall. Make sure you are prepared mentally before attempting this route.

The first pitch is rather well protected with four bolts before the belay anchors. Each one is just where you need it. The crux is between the third and fourth bolts where the rock really gets steep. The climbing leading to the crux can be a little heady at times but I took my time and worked my way up with no problems. The crux section took me a few minutes to work the moves out but I was able break through without ever losing my grip or footing. I was sure happy to clip that fourth bolt though. The remainder of the pitch is a little runout but the climbing was only moderate.

The second pitch does not have any fixed protection but there are a few spots where some pro could be placed near the top of the pitch. I went up and slightly left towards the Oasis. I stayed on the right side of the raised section of rock with a pine tree on top of it. The climbing through this area is only moderate but the lack of protection does make it dangerous. When I was nearing the rough rock below the pine tree, I encountered some thin flakes just to my right. Do not use this rock for holds or protection as it is just barely there and wouldn't take much to break it loose. I continued up and crossed over to the left above the pine tree and into the safety of the Oasis. I chose to climb the second pitch with zero pro but I did see a few spots where additional protection was possible. The route can be finished on the Pulpit but we ended at the Oasis since we have climbed the Pulpit several times already.

Added: 2011-10-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: nedsurf on 2005-02-27 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Yeah, slab makes me feel like the super good climber i am not. A good challenge for when I know I will not take a leader fall.

Added: 2005-02-27