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Pandora's Way - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 30
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
PG13
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

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Submitted by: nnop on 2011-03-29
Views: 516
Route ID: 108260

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2012-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Decent Moderate Lead

Couldn't have asked for a much better day to climb. Lead the full route. Still nursing a sore ankle from a sprain and dealing with some mental issues from witnessing a death here. Not ready to jump back on the tougher routes yet. The second pitch has a lot of runout. It is about 50' from the first bolt to second bolt on some steep rock. The rest of the pitch is easier but also runout. I ran it out until just under the Oasis before placing any protection. It is a long ways from the first pitch belay to the Oasis. I might have had 20' or 30 ' left on a 70M rope. We were able to rappel on the single rope but it required some interesting traverses. We used the second pitch belay of the pulpit and then came back over to the first pitch belay of Strawberry Preserves and were able to hit the ground where we left our gear.

Added: 2012-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Decent Lead That Didn't Look Like It Gets Much Traffic

I had an additional climbing partner show up after climbing Electric Boobs so we allowed her to pick the next route and this was it. I lead both pitches and belayed both the second and third climbers. This route has two pitches leading up to the belay in the Oasis. You may need to turn it into three pitches, as the second pitch is a solid 200' or so. We use a 70M rope so we do not run into problems with these long pitches. Be prepared for scary runout on the second pitch. We rapped back down from the Oasis but the route can be finished on the Pulpit if you choose to do so.

The route starts directly between Strawberry Preserves (on the left) and The Purring (to the right) where some tree branches are just touching the rock. Climb up to a small ledge with a bolt located on the right side of the ledge. You will need to climb through the branches. They are too small to use for protection, just be be careful not to let them distract you. From the bolt, climb up and slightly right to the belay anchors. This first pitch is very short and easy.

The second pitch is where the fun stuff begins. Climb up from the belay a short distance into a bowl with a bolt in it (I was not able to see this bolt from the ground). Move out left from the bowl and climb straight up a steep wall about 50' to the final bolt. This is 50' of sustained 5.9 or better climbing with no chance of additional pro. The climbing eases off from the last bolt and enters some nice jugs and flakes where extra pro could be added. You will pass a small pine to your left that could be slung and could possibly make a nice location for a natural belay if needed. The climbing through this section up to the Oasis is quite easy so I chose not to use additional pro and ran it out the 120' or so from the last bolt.

I highly recommend anyone seconding the route wear a helmet. There is a lot of loose rock in the area where the jugs and flakes start. Both climbers behind me slipped on the steep section between the first and second bolts of the second pitch. The second fell until the rope caught. There was no slack in the rope but there was 150' or better of rope between us so the stretch made it interesting. The third was able to self arrest and only went a few inches. When the second fell, the rope knocked a softball sized piece of rock loose from above that almost hit the third climber. I downclimbed and picked up two pieces of loose rock, one quite large, and laid them in the pool in the Oasis before I let the third climber continue. Just be careful and always aware when in this area. I do not recommend this route unless you are well versed in steep friction.

Added: 2011-07-18