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surrealistic pillar direct - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (40)
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Rock
nuts/cams 3/8" to #4 camalot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a V0 WI2 A0 M1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.45/5

Description:

Steeper start to surrealistic pillar. start in the wide crack dihedral, move right into a finger crack for 20 feet, then join the regular route. this route is highly suggested.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-01-08
Views: 2549
Route ID: 8739

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40 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: leoand23 on 2014-08-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Surrealistic indeed

I red point after only my second attempt. What a great P1 this was. I used 4 pieces on the wide crack with double length runners to have the rope go straight up with zero drag. The roof protects really well and once you trust your jams it's all over if you get your feet on the knob. Rest some and a few moves later it will be in the bag. It feels true to the rating.

Added: 2014-08-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2011-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars direct

takes great gear, sometimes it's a little far back in the crack. felt pretty hard for 10b. I'll say 10c. ran out the last piece and opted for the more direct line going straight for the anchor on dikes.

Added: 2011-09-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: aerili on 2010-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 1 fall...so close to the redpoint...gack!

Decided to jump on this after over a year and try leading it. On top of the roof and 1 move away from getting my foot on the right big knob (i.e. the rest of all rests!), my hand slipped out of the crack and I fellllllllllllllllll...........

Added: 2010-09-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cobbledik on 2010-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

interesting moves

Added: 2010-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: DanSimenc on 2010-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Cool

Excellent first pitch (to chains). Finishes with cool dike hike.

Added: 2010-07-03

... Read all 40 ascent notes