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More Fun Than Bubblewrap - 5.10b

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 19
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Tommy Blackwell, Evan Jackson, Sean O'Grady
Rock (Sport)
G
1
3 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

much longer than it looks from the ground, due to low anchors under bad rock. Trad FA by Mike Klein, way back when Johnny Reimers owned the ranch. [2/14/14: upgraded to 5.10b]

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Last Modified: 2014-02-14
Views: 892
Route ID: 111053

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cw1242 on 2013-12-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Got on this for the name alone! Unsure of my emotions after.

This route is...weird. There are movements on this route that you'll be hard-pressed to find on any other route in Reimers - especially on limestone. I actually did a legitimate hand jam or two. The layback start is exceptionally awkward and different per my own constant quote during the send of "This is weird...why am I doing this? Screw this on trad gear!"

I think it is probably 10c due to the effort of clipping the third bolt. Don't blow that one.

Added: 2013-12-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars awkward as heck

i didn't find the fun :(

scary scenario if a fall happens prior to clipping #3. be mindful, prudent and safe.

Added: 2013-09-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2008-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars hard!

Not sure I've ever sent this. I suck at it. Maybe it's graded too low. I collected few opinions; Chris Barton agreed with 10a and climbs it well. Joel wasn't sure: anywhere from 10a to 10d. I'm going to propose a 10b for the sake of argument, though the book says 10a, spend more time on it and collect more opinions.

Added: 2012-04-12