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Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Insanity Wall : variation with bolts: ...Never WAS, and never will BE!

variation with bolts: ...Never WAS, and never will BE! - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 18
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 permadraws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.75/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.75/5

Description:

Starts He Ain't My Brother... Continues traversing into the little Neil Higa cave and out/up to Imaginary Friend's anchors. Substantially longer than the main route and so it's the one to do unless you're one of those traverse haters. The names of the main route and this variation form a Milton Reimers quote described in the guidebook. The proper pronounciation, however, is not described. Stick your chest out, head back, and sass your head while deliverying your best Texas-hick accent.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Views: 534
Route ID: 111052

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: aaronraby on 2012-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Very fun 11d on a slight overhang.

Loved the start moves, however I couldn't seem to find a good clipping stance on the 3rd perma so I skipped it. Great rest on the ledge before final few moves.

Added: 2012-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: aaronraby on 2012-10-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Very fun 11d on a slight overhang.

Loved the start moves, however I couldn't seem to find a good clipping stance on the 3rd perma so I skipped it. Great rest on the ledge before final few moves.

Added: 2012-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Hard Start

Thought the opening moves on this route were quite difficult and certainly harder than "Imaginary Friend". Glad it got 11d. Second try.

Added: 2012-05-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2009-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars longer version of the main route

Both this variation and the main route have interesting finishes. Both share some very fun beta (spoiler), for isntance, a left-foot sidepull heel hook to gain the ledge. Both are intricate.

Added: 2012-04-12