Skip to Content

Pave the World - 5.12b

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
2 bolts + 3 permadraws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Several holds have broken after the FA: great starting right hand is gone, making the start even more sustained; paper thin right hand hold, forcing a cooler traverse move. And the last hard left hand thin sidepull crimp crumbled a little. The route has a thin coating protecting the choss that made up the crux right hand blob crimp. It seems solid now. Upgraded to 12b with the first people thinking 12b-c an later groups from 2014 thinking 12b. BETA SPOILER: I used a post move that made the last hard moves work, but was probably at my peak, and I think the leg has to be angled just so for it to work. The harder start makes the upgrade from 12a seem a no-brainer.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-11
Last Modified: 2014-02-10
Views: 322
Route ID: 111032

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ericq99 on 2013-02-02 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars fun, then blank

good until 2/3rds up route and wall blanks out. not sure if holds broke or route is intended to meander 5 ft right to cave/holds. finished route by moving waaay right and waaay back left.

Added: 2013-02-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2009-01-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars hardest power crux I ever pulled

Beta spoiler: this route taught me how leg tension can solve tiny holds on steep terrain. This latest beta accounts for the hold breaks:
Clip permadraw.
RH reach or deadpoint to high little jug ledge far right (3’) of and slightly higher than bolt #2. (Option: step on plant.)
LH diagonal crimp under RH (there are no comfortable options).
Campus up, LF to point, RF on indention ramp.
LH gaston above and right of bolt #2.
LF crimp far left, left of mild arete.
RF best mini-ramp over roof (the leftmost of 2).
RH jam 2pocket just above LH. Too hard to release LH, so next move is dynamic.
Pull in. With momentum heading towards cliff, LH snatch far left long pinch under hueco; hit it low.
RH crimp under the bad hueco; left side is deeper so 2 digits can curl deep.
RF little ramp 18” above roof (4” left of bolt2).
LH up slightly to little 2finger ledge crimp.
RH juggy middle of brown flake where it has a horizontal crack.
LH clip bolt #3.
LF slightly right on chossy area.
LH sloper on the wide ledge. Shuffle hands along the ledge until both are on jugs at leftmost part of the ledge.
Clip with LH to rest it more for the crux.
LF left hueco, RF blobs; this tilts your body diagonally, feet left of head. (The point of it is getting a higher LF to reach
the next RH.)
Crux: next three handholds.
LH paper-thin crimp at bolt level, 3’ left of bolt.
Leg tension!
RH deadpoint half-pad sika-coated knob sloper. Usually have to adjust knuckle levels after the hit.
RF onto jug ledge; rock on.
LF flag slightly right of body. (Don’t overdo it in a counter-balance attempt; it’s too steep.)
Leg tension!
Stand up a little, pressing LF hard and dragging it up the cliff.
LH snatch brown sidepull crimp.
RH to obvious juggy slot below the right of two caves.
LH reach deep to jug knob on bottom of the left cave.
RH pinch scary looking brown stuff.
LH reach deep in upper part of cave to jug handle formed by two outcrops that almost join, forming a thin crack. Clip permadraw.
RH sidepull on left side of right cave. You’re runout! Belay do not pull climber (towards ledge) before he falls.
RF hard-to-set knee bar: put toe low in the cave to leave room to point knee into cave, then move toe up. Setting knee shallow may be
better than going for a deep kneebar. Painful no-hands or light-hands rest.
LF bend leg straight for better rest.
RH reach to juggy ledge while kneebar still set.
LH marginal sidepull among lots of bad options.
RH juggy horn; bump to even better jug near right anchor.




Added: 2012-04-11