shares a starting hold with Pollution/Erosion, using it right-handed. JG felt it might be 12b, but he would not use my trick footwork. Then he crumbled some matter off an already small crimp, so it might indeed be harder by now. A cement dab isn't that hold; it's a reenforcement layer on a chossy little blob.
Original name: Planetary Overdevelopment. Just didn't have the same ring.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-11
Last Modified: 2012-04-12
Route ID: 111032
I hope the crux holds survive long enough for alot of people to have the fun I did. The cement enforced dab and the thin lefthand pinches. Beta spoiler: this route taught me how leg tension can solve tiny holds on steep terrain.
Intruicate beta: Clip permadraw if you can reach it. RH reach high little jug ledge far right (3’) of and slightly higher than bolt #2. LH diagonal crimp under RH (there are no comfortable options). Campus up, LF to point, RF on indention ramp. LH gaston above and right of bolt #2. Lean left (keep feet), RH lycon paper-thin flake above LH gaston. RF smear either of two ramps. LF crimp left of mild arete to pull in and left. LH pinch under hueco. The pinch is long; hit it low. RH crimp under the bad hueco; left side is deeper so 2 digits can curl deep. RF little ramp 18” above roof (4” left of bolt2). LH Clip #3 (careful!). LH up slightly to little 2finger ledge crimp. RH juggy middle of brown flake where it has a horizontal crack. LF slightly right on chossy area. LH sloper on the wide ledge. Shuffle hands along the ledge until both are on jugs at leftmost part of the ledge. Clip with LH to rest it more for the crux. LF left hueco, RF blobs; this tilts your body diagonally, feet left of head. (The point of it is getting a higher LF to reach the next RH.) Crux: next three handholds. LH paper-thin crimp at bolt level, 3’ left of bolt. Leg tension! RH deadpoint half-pad sika-coated knob sloper. Usually have to adjust knuckle levels after the hit. RF onto jug ledge; rock on. LF flag slightly right of body. (Don’t overdo it in a counter-balance attempt; it’s too steep.) Leg tension! (Here or next move: stand up, still pressing LF hard.) LH snatch brown sidepull crimp. RH to obvious juggy slot below the right of two caves. LH reach deep to jug knob on bottom of the left cave. RH pinch scary looking brown stuff. LH reach deep in upper part of cave to jug handle formed by two outcrops that almost join, forming a thin crack. Clip permadraw. RH sidepull on left side of right cave. You’re runout! Belay do not pull climber (towards ledge) before he falls. RF hard-to-set knee bar: put toe low in the cave to leave room to point knee into cave, then move toe up. Setting knee shallow may be better than going for a deep kneebar. Painful no-hands or light-hands rest. LF bend leg straight for better rest. RH reach to juggy ledge while kneebar still set. LH marginal sidepull among lots of bad options. RH juggy horn; bump to even better jug near right anchor.