A bottom to top summit route, but only the 1st pitch is usually done.
Take the Tower Trail counter clockwise passing the large fallen column on the east side of the trail. A dirt trail will head of to the left, follow this up to the base and right till you are below the Teacher's Lounge. Climb two pitches (Patent Pending) of low quality easy climbing to get to the Teacher's Lounge. A much better option is to climb Broken Tree or New Wave.
Climb a stunning 5.9+ hand crack in a shallow dihedral for a long pitch to fixed anchors. This is one of the best hand cracks on the tower.
One more long, rambling, wide, fun pitch (5.6) and You will reach the summit. Lovely views; high up and exposed !!
This is a super classic if you do one of the 10's to Teachers Lounge and rap after the 5.9 pitch. It is even MORE Classic to climb the quintessential "Last Pitch To The Top" !!!!
Very hard, sustained, long, 5.9+. Same move over and over again so make sure your left hand jams are 100%. Make sure you can climb El Cracko before attempting this. Make sure you bring lots tons of medium cams. Don't miss the belay station 155 feet up it is hidden on the left column, look for traverse bolt.
Submitted by: endrizzi on 2007-11-04
Route ID: 9981
This climb looked amazing from the base and looked like the perfect corner crack. More verticle than Soler but also rated 5.9 I assumed I would be able to lead it and certainly climb it no problem. Rebecca wanted to take the lead and I watched her go and she was flawless. I opted to TR it the first time and luckily I made the right choice. I was hang dogin and flayling all over the place. I felt that nothing really fit for me as holds and I kept peeling off the wall. Later I got beta from Frank Sanders on how to climb it and must go back to try it out and at least climb it cleanly and then think about leading it.
Reached by climbing Patent Pending. We used a rack to #3 camalot with doubles .5-2. This route got so much hype that we were bound to be a little let down. It seemed easier than Soler, and the moves were repetitive.