Average Rating : 2.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Will Cottrell, Steve Miller (1984)
Cams to 2" Mostly thin. Nuts 1 set mostly small, offsets very useful.
Located between Fantasia and Scimitar. This is a similar route to Fantasia but follows a more difficult line up a more runnout face. Start up the face on the far right of the big arching crack climbing easy face via dikes to a bolt. Get some gear under the roof and pull over the roof to more runnout face and dikes. Sketchy thin gear can be found following the left facing dihedrals just left of the gear laden corner of Scimitar. Belay at the Scimitar anchor. Climb the steep face above heading to a bolt about 25ft up just left of the 5.6r section of scimitar. After the bolt, traverse left to the anchors of Fantasia. This is a relatively short pitch. Next climb out right clipping a pin and commit to a wild and dangerously runnout roof above. Solid gear can be found about 10ft above the roof where another roof in encountered. From there climb more or less strait up through more bulges and runnouts. A pin can be found somewhere along the line. Eventually you'll end up topping out about the same place as Fantasia... just left of Scimitar.
Descent, there is no descent. You're committed now. Top out or die.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2011-06-20
Route ID: 109158
Pulling over the first obvious roof leads to quite a few "moves" that tend to be a little run with slightly crunchy pro. This is no death route but you'll want to be solid at the grade and have climbed: Fantasia,Fear No Evil. The crux of the route is trying to stay off Fantasia to your left and Scimitar to your right. Not a fantastic route but worth the adventure.
This route was pretty sketchy right from the first bolt onwards. The first pitch has some pretty committing 5.9 climbing above the roof over some pretty bullshit pro. The pro is ok but it's far form great. Eventually you'll figure your way out to the anchors of Scimitar. The second pitch goes more or less strait up from the anchors to a bolt and then steep face to the anchros of Fantasia just off to the left. The next pitch goes out right to a pin and climbs over a committing roof. If you fall committing to the roof you'll get fukked up at best. I went strait up from the anchors and traversed into the section above the roof. That section looked way to sketchy to even bother with. Next up is another roof which is actually kinda fun. Above that is a series of never ending thin face, bulges and runnouts to the top. Seriously, this thing never gives up all the way to the top. Totally contrived and really not worth the effort.