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The Deviate - 5.10a

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Tom Higgins, Ben Borson (1968)
Rock (Trad)
R
3
Cams to 2" especially small. Nuts 1 set, RP's and offsets useful.
400
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

To the left of Psychedelic Tree. Start up a series of easy dikes 5.6 passing a 6" thick roof flake where your first pro will be found about 40ft up. Continue up more dikes heading toward a white streak with a vertical crack in it. Build a belay in this crack. There is a piton there which helps to know you're in the right spot. The second pitch climbs up this vertical crack to dikes above. Continue strait up passing dikes, flakes, bulges and ledges with sparse protection while heading toward the left end of psychedelic ledge. The third pitch finishes up the roof ending of Psychedelic Tree.

Descent Options:

Walk off.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2011-12-04
Views: 331
Route ID: 110328

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Gnarly

The first pitch was a cake walk. The start of the second pitch was more easy but run out climbing for the first 70ft. Mostly 5.7/8 with an occasional .10 move thrown in. Then it began... The route pulled onto a small ledge with only one good placement. The only way to go was right then up through a series of gigantic 3/4in vibrating flexing flakes. No reliable pro and 5.10 climbing brought me to a blank slab where a bulge on dime edges had to be pressed out. With thick lichen crunching under foot and solid 5.10 slab ahead, you then climb only another 25ft to the first good protection in about 60ft. Dont blow the top out.

After the first pitch, you can climb up the crack above and traverse up and right to intersect with Psychedelic Tree. This variation is what's shown in the Carville guide and is the way to go if one values their health.

Added: 2011-12-04