Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Lovers Leap : East Wall : East Wall
Previous
East Wall - 5.6 popular
|
Ken Edsburg, Mike Edsburg, J. Sublette (1964)
Rock
nuts/cams to #4 cam.
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
3 pitch climb. Pitch one is in right facing open book. Second pitch is traverse left. Can be hard to find route from belay. Go out to left of belay onto face. [You might be tempted to go up the obvious corner instead--don't unless you're looking for a more difficult variation--it's harder than 5.6.] Go up about 20-25 feet and traverse along dikes to meet up with bushy ledge (belay #2). Watch for rope drag. The end of the traverse is pretty thin. Look for the biggest dikes to go across. Third pitch is easier climbing after traverse.
Submitted by: hadley on 2002-06-03
Views: 549
Route ID: 11117
Most Recent Photos
|
|
34 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 34 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
Fun but confusing route finding
I lead the entire route and go so lost on the second pitch had to down climb at least three times. But in my opinion if any of my variations had panned out they would have improved the route. I ended up doing the "scary exposed traverse" as the super topo calls it just because for the life of me the higher traverse was not there. It was exposed and unprotected but on jugs and no biggie. 3rd pitch we linked into bears reach and there are two harder 5.8/5.9 moves but I've lead them before and they are easily protected.
Added: 2009-11-02
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Very Fun
A Classic
Added: 2009-08-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun
I really enjoyed climbing the corner of P1 and the traverse at P2. Route finding is a must. P3 was just ok.
Added: 2009-07-25
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Woah....
Great, except for the line at the top.
Added: 2009-06-18
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Continued up the obvious corner
interesting and strengthy move at the top of the corner above the normal belay station 1
traverse from this higher belay is a bit more interesting and fun than the lower traverse.
traverse from this higher belay is a bit more interesting and fun than the lower traverse.
Added: 2009-05-11
