3 pitch climb. Pitch one is in right facing open book. Second pitch is traverse left. Can be hard to find route from belay. Go out to left of belay onto face. [You might be tempted to go up the obvious corner instead--don't unless you're looking for a more difficult variation--it's harder than 5.6.] Go up about 20-25 feet and traverse along dikes to meet up with bushy ledge (belay #2). Watch for rope drag. The end of the traverse is pretty thin. Look for the biggest dikes to go across. Third pitch is easier climbing after traverse.
Submitted by: hadley on 2002-06-03
Route ID: 11117
I lead the entire route and go so lost on the second pitch had to down climb at least three times. But in my opinion if any of my variations had panned out they would have improved the route. I ended up doing the "scary exposed traverse" as the super topo calls it just because for the life of me the higher traverse was not there. It was exposed and unprotected but on jugs and no biggie. 3rd pitch we linked into bears reach and there are two harder 5.8/5.9 moves but I've lead them before and they are easily protected.