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East Wall - 5.6 popular

Average Rating = 4.14/5 Average Rating : 4.14 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (34)
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Ken Edsburg, Mike Edsburg, J. Sublette (1964)
Rock
nuts/cams to #4 cam.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.73/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.09/5
  Fun Factor 4.27/5

Description:

3 pitch climb. Pitch one is in right facing open book. Second pitch is traverse left. Can be hard to find route from belay. Go out to left of belay onto face. [You might be tempted to go up the obvious corner instead--don't unless you're looking for a more difficult variation--it's harder than 5.6.] Go up about 20-25 feet and traverse along dikes to meet up with bushy ledge (belay #2). Watch for rope drag. The end of the traverse is pretty thin. Look for the biggest dikes to go across. Third pitch is easier climbing after traverse.

Submitted by: hadley on 2002-06-03
Views: 1719
Route ID: 11117

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34 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: aerili on 2011-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A very good route

Climbed with Chuck. I think pitches 1-2 make this route better than Bear's Reach or East Crack (which conjoin with it on p3). P2 traverse is just awesome.

Added: 2011-08-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: thecornyman on 2009-11-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun but confusing route finding

I lead the entire route and go so lost on the second pitch had to down climb at least three times. But in my opinion if any of my variations had panned out they would have improved the route. I ended up doing the "scary exposed traverse" as the super topo calls it just because for the life of me the higher traverse was not there. It was exposed and unprotected but on jugs and no biggie. 3rd pitch we linked into bears reach and there are two harder 5.8/5.9 moves but I've lead them before and they are easily protected.

Added: 2009-11-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Ian_F on 2009-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very Fun

A Classic

Added: 2009-08-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chugar on 2009-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

I really enjoyed climbing the corner of P1 and the traverse at P2. Route finding is a must. P3 was just ok.

Added: 2009-07-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rockwizard on 2009-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Woah....

Great, except for the line at the top.

Added: 2009-06-18

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