Skip to Content

Banzai - A1

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
(Trad) Aid
G
10
Cams, double .3"-3" Nuts, 1 set (offsets) 1 set RP's Pins, couple LA's (short med/thick) Couple KB's (short med/thick) Copper/Alu Heads, couple #1 & 2
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d A0
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Climbs a strait up crack groove for three vertical/steep pitches then wanders a bit through a series of cracks and ledges and finally ends with some nice moderate crack climbing. The route has been totally retrobolted for free climbing sporting over 20 bolts in just the first three pitches. A bolted free variation around the blank bolt ladder on pitch 4 has been done also. The addition of the retro bolts brings the severity down from A3+ to A1+. Pitches 1&2 have excellent free climbing in a wildly steep exposed position (P1 5.11, P2 5.10c) Pitch three is a dirty steep pile and best to be avoided by aiding through on the bolts to avoid filling your eyes with moss.

Descent Options:

Rap the route at any time. If topping out, rap the EDP rap route for a more direct decent.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-09-21
Views: 594
Route ID: 96056

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c A0
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2012-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Alright

I tried to free as much of this as possible but the 3rd pitch is pretty damn hard. I really want to clean the moss out and actually give it a real go.

Added: 2012-04-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a A1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-09-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Banzeye!!!

First two pitches are great free climbing. Pitch three is a dirty groove that's been turned into a sport route. Many bolted variations to the route exist witch go around less desireable sections of rock like chimneys and a bolt ladder. Pretty lame over use of bolts IMO. Bolts are sported right next to gear protected features.

Way to turn a heads up aid route into a sport route guys.

Added: 2008-09-21