Climbs a strait up crack groove for three vertical/steep pitches then wanders a bit through a series of cracks and ledges and finally ends with some nice moderate crack climbing.
The route has been totally retrobolted for free climbing sporting over 20 bolts in just the first three pitches. A bolted free variation around the blank bolt ladder on pitch 4 has been done also. The addition of the retro bolts brings the severity down from A3+ to A1+. Pitches 1&2 have excellent free climbing in a wildly steep exposed position (P1 5.11, P2 5.10c) Pitch three is a dirty steep pile and best to be avoided by aiding through on the bolts to avoid filling your eyes with moss.
Rap the route at any time.
If topping out, rap the EDP rap route for a more direct decent.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2008-09-21
Route ID: 96056
First two pitches are great free climbing. Pitch three is a dirty groove that's been turned into a sport route. Many bolted variations to the route exist witch go around less desireable sections of rock like chimneys and a bolt ladder. Pretty lame over use of bolts IMO. Bolts are sported right next to gear protected features.
Way to turn a heads up aid route into a sport route guys.