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Medicine Man - 5.13a A0

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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R
7
Few cams to 2".
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Climb two difficult face pitches with some spice to a thin seam in an overhanging corner. AO or free the steep headwall to Shaman ledge. The next pitch is a steep arete then into a corner up some easy face with good gear. The next pitch climbs out a well protected dike and wildly traverses out left. The last pitch is a long rope stretcher with some long runnouts between bolts. The bolts run out about half way up the pitch and you finish by doing a long 100ft solo up easy face to the anchor which is a bolt and a sling wrapped around a big knob.

Descent Options:

Rappel the route or walk over and rappel World of Walls.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2012-05-31
Views: 323
Route ID: 111556

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.13a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2014-04-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

Start in any of about 10 places. The best is probably the clean 5.9 crack that starts off a pillar with thin fingers (10B). At the anchor, follow bolts straight up a slab. The 11 A rating is a Calaveras rating. Above the slab, a good ledge with a marginal anchor. Head left and through tiered roof. Follow the corner to a bad anchor and tree, and then up the steep anchor past gear and two bolts. The next anchor is just OK. After this, AO or 5.13 up the face. Beyond is another 5.11 face with OK anchor and OK bolts. The bolted variation on pitch 3 has bad bolts.

Added: 2014-04-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 0000-00-00 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ok

Some pretty sketchy first few pitches lead to much more mellow climbing above. Some of the bolts above the headwall could use an upgrading though none of them are super horrible. 1/4in bolts on stainless hangers. At least they aren't spinning Leepers eh? Well, most of them aren't anyway. The runnout on the last pitch is death if you fall. Fortunately it's pretty easy 5.7ish. Unfortunately there's a water streak that goes right through it I had to climb through. Thought I was going for the big bouncy roll.

Added: 2012-05-31