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Mr. Stiffy - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Cams, .4" - 2" Nuts 1 set.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5


A couple approach pitches bring you to a short 5.8 traverse along a large dike heading out left past a couple bolts to a two bolt anchor. The next pitch starts out in a shallow groove with bad pro for about 15ft then eases up for a bit and the gear gets better and better. More traversing up left with everything from face moves, fingerlocks and hand jamming lead to a short rooflet bulge with good gear. After the bulge, more difficult moves lead to a difficult transfer to a thin ledge and the anchors. The crux of the route is in the last 5 ft.

Descent Options:

Rap with two 60m ropes.

Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-06-29
Views: 645
Route ID: 100609

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2009-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Weard

Cottrells guide calls this one of the best single pitches at Caliveras.... I don't agree at all. It is varied climbing, a bit spicy and forever changing but still a little dirty and just awkward. It's a great pitch but not one of the best at Cal Domes.

Added: 2009-06-29