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Sands of Time - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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rack to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 V0 WI1 A0 M1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.29/5
  Rock Quality 4.29/5
  Scenery 4.71/5
  Fun Factor 3.86/5

Description:

III/IV 5.9, ascends the prominent left-facing corner on the left side of Calaveras Dome's prominent "Hourglass." Traverse right around corner after P3, and figure out how to step left into wide crack. The following pitch is perhaps the best 5.8 fingers you'll ever find. One more 5.6R pitch up to a prominent ledge ("12-O'Clock High Ledge"). Rap from the ledge's left edge w/ two 60m ropes down Silk Road.

Submitted by: slobmonster on 2006-09-15
Views: 1918
Route ID: 77016

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9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: unirock on 2009-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars It's a blast

Done it a few times

Added: 2012-11-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9 V0 WI1 A0 M1 F
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: aerili on 2011-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Just add blowtorch

If this route got as much traffic as the routes at Lover's Leap get, I think overall it would feel a lot sweeter. Unfortunately, there is abundant dirt and moss on many sections. In exchange for the sometimes dirty climbing, you get an adventurous experience while seeing possibly nary a soul (as we did not) and big exposure with serene and beautiful views.

The most awesome sections for me were surmounting the p2 roof finish and, of course, the long road of p5 fingers on the beautiful face (very Tuolumne-esque!).

The p8 squeeze chimney is not for typical 5.8 leaders; put someone well above the grade on the sharp end for this one or be well honed in offwidth technique. Hopefully your feet are large enough to heel-toe the hard sections (mine were not!).

Added: 2011-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: retro67 on 2010-08-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ticking Away

Did with Daniel W. on his B-day. Pitch 5 is awsome.

Added: 2010-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: A-Bowl on 2010-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Run up it!

Tried rastaman and was kicked off... don't want to talk about it! thought we might as well use our time. pretty good route... like the positions you find yourself in up on the dome better than the actual climbing. the long 5.8 fingers was the highlight and that's about all ill remember. kinda like calaveras' royal arches equivalent... although a little more exposed and less ledgy.

Added: 2010-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: phewes on 2009-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Tricamus Introduction to Cal Dome

I love this route. Do able but challanging for me.

Added: 2009-08-18

... Read all 9 ascent notes