Start any number of ways to Tsunami ledge. The easiest being to approach via. the War of the Walls approach and traversing in on Salami Ledge to an anchor station. From there traverse left around an improbable looking corner and up a short 5.8 crack to Tsunami ledge.
The first pitch is an awkward corner with good pro to a ledge. Pitch two starts up a steep corner and is short ending at a small ledge about 50ft up. It's best to link pitches two and three. Pitch three is an exercise in groveling in the garden. Make your way around and through several trees until you can gain a crack out right on the face leaving the moss and choss behind. A short steep lieback leads to a steep dihedral and a hanging belay. Pitch four is an awkward but interesting pitch of under-clinging furry cracks, stemming over crispy stances, and burrowing behind a tree to a bolted belay. Payback for the leader of pitch three. Pitch 5 makes the route worth repeating. Some wandering up cracks on the face leads back into a steep overhanging dihedral where sustained perfect locker fingers await. The crux saves its self until the very last of the dihedral where you pull around the corner to easier ground. Make your way up until you pass a worthless bolt. From here you have a choice. Either left up a chossy corner and back right to the belay anchors, or go right up steep bulges and around huge blocks to a headwall. From the high point you stem over an exposed void right to a knob, then make your way up two parallel dikes which shoot diagonally up and left to the anchors. Definitely the better of the two options on clean exposed rock. Not run out like the guide shows as there is a good knob to sling mid way up. The next two pitches are low angle (4th class)wide cracks which can easily be simul climbed to Green Sponge ledge.
Rap the route from pitch 6 with two 60m ropes. You can also rap down Silk Road from anchors on the far left side of 12 O'clock High ledge or walk along Green Sponge Ledge about 400ft to the anchors of War of the Walls.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-10-28
Route ID: 102218
Maybe a one star. A fair bit of moss and trees. We changed the belay spots some which made for better belay ledges. the guide calls for a #6. Not necessary. One number three and one or two # 4s is enough with doubles of mid an singles of small. I used only a few small nuts. True to grade.
Really fun climbing the whole way. Don't be put off by the name of the climb or the fact that there is a little munge along the way. It's really not bad and actually adds something to the route. It's got that old school feel and definitely an adventure. The crux pitch is an absolute must do and is on par with some of the best that Cal Domes has to offer. Really fun, naturally well protected and totally under appreciated.