Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Moores Wall : Amphitheater : Golden Earring
Golden Earring - 5.7 popular
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Rock
Nuts, Cams & runners
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Description:
Climb the vertical crack at the right side of the wall. Once you hit the roof, you have to make a traverse left then up to the ledge. This is no wimpy 5.7.
Submitted by: bulldog on 2005-10-19
Views: 655
Route ID: 15642
Most Recent Photo
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34 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 34 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Cool Route!
Did this on second. Looked like good gear placement throughout!
Added: 2009-10-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
consistent
great consistent 5.7 crack
Added: 2009-10-11
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
revisited
Back again with thoughts on the step and fetch finish. However, I was climbing mid-afternoon when the sun starts to bake this wall. Right around the thinner part below the roof I was sweating so much that even the hand+ jam in the roof felt slick. A hard call but I decided to be prudent and back off. I'll come back on a less humid day...
The bottom third was wet and had a nice coat of green going too, although that part is easy going.
For the record I got some beta from folks in the area (thanks Jeff!) that day that the S+F finish begins by stepping right onto a decent ledge immediately after pulling through the vertical section into the corner before the traverse.
The bottom third was wet and had a nice coat of green going too, although that part is easy going.
For the record I got some beta from folks in the area (thanks Jeff!) that day that the S+F finish begins by stepping right onto a decent ledge immediately after pulling through the vertical section into the corner before the traverse.
Added: 2009-08-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Great Crack
Followed the wife up this one. Reminded us of JTree cracks. Good climb with lots of gear.
Added: 2009-08-19
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
First clean 5.7 at Moores
Beautiful sustained vertical pitch in the Amphitheater. Crux for me was just below the roof where holds got thin and required balance and faith to achieve secure holds below the roof. High traverse below the roof is easy if you use jug holds baked into the roof.
Added: 2009-05-25





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