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Karakoram Highway last 5 pitches. - 5.11d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
R
5
Gear to 4 inches. Heavy on small pieces
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

See description for first two pitches after traverse in from silk road. After these two, one is on the right side of the huge roof, 1500 ft up and easily seen from the road. From your stance, there is a low angle seam that looks unlikely for protection. Take the seam--there is good pro. The first part of the arch is easy, but the pro is questionable. RPs and very small cams. Unfortunately, the average sized person is about 6 inches short of a good hold and must do a 5.10+ friction move with poor pro to get into the arch 10+ Pg/R). After getting into the arch, the pro is continuously good. The climbing across the arch is nearly horizontal and continuously burly---160 ft. to natural belay. The next pitch is short and hard--one probably looses a bit of elevation on this horizontal pitch--5.11. After this pitch, there is another rappel option. Above, is another huge looming arch. Follow a broken area with good pro into the arch. The first part of the arch is hard to protect, and is probably 5.11 R. After 15 ft, the crack opens enough to accept gray alien to finger sized pieces. It is very sustained for at least 60 ft to a stance with natural gear--140 ft. Above this, the arch eases considerably with maximum difficulty to 5.9, and the last 100 ft about 5.5.--250 ft.

Descent Options:

Several. After the first two pitches, on can head right to a tree, and then rappel down silk road. After the next two pitches, there is another rappel anchor. Finally, at the top, one can rappel. This anchor is about 40 ft from the top of the arch, an

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2012-09-16
Views: 371
Route ID: 112581

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-10-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of the best long lines in California

This route is about 2000ft long. It is continuously hard. I thought it was much harder than the regular route on half dome. That said, there are many bail options. Go as far as you can, and then turn around. A few Lowe Balls may tame the dangerous areas. Rappeling from the top involves 40 ft lateral swings. I thought the second pitch of Karakoram deserved 11+.

Added: 2012-10-17