The aid route at the Gunks. Climbs the absolutely enormous roof left of Andrew, and has now been freed at 5.13. Approach by doing the first pitch of Andrew. The business traverses out the huge roof on bad fixed pins and wires, and then continues at 5.6ish to the top of the cliff. Rope drag is bad so this is almost easier to rope solo. Great place to harvest booty. Gets an A2 purely because it is awkward and strenuous-every placement is A1.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2006-10-23
Last Modified: 2007-02-17
Route ID: 5305
if you can climb this hard, do the route, its beautiful. if you can't, even the aid was interesting. thats how i got up there. be sure to not get lost by exiting too early- the middle crack is tempting because of fixed gear above it, but thats the chisel job "french connection." keep going. there is one marginal placement going out the roof. you wouldn't even need it if leading, but need it on aid to reach the next placement.